Bosi and Graham on the evolving Art of bouldering: Difficulty, Training, and the Pull of the Rock
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Evaluating bouldering difficulty is a complex, subjective process, but elite climbers Will Bosi and Dave Graham offer unique insight into the factors that define a problem’s grade and the evolving landscape of the sport. The two renowned boulderers shared their perspectives at the Get High Finals of Urban Apes Berlin Friedrichshain, discussing their shared passion for climbing and the nuances of training and assessment.
The Dynamic Duo and Their recent Achievements
Will Bosi, a scottish climber, and Dave Graham, an American professional known as the “Wizard of Climbing,” have established themselves as leading figures in the bouldering world. Bosi has recently made headlines with groundbreaking ascents, including the first ascent of Realm of Tor’ment (9A), the first repetition of Excalibur (9b+), and the first ascent of Sunset (8C+) in Portugal. Graham, a pioneer in the sport, boasts an notable tick list of over 700 boulders between 8A and 8C+, alongside 455 routes graded 8a to 9a+. Their collaborative trip to Val Bavona in spring 2025 proved triumphant, providing a valuable prospect to benchmark climbing levels.
The Subjectivity of Grading
The assessment of bouldering problems is far from straightforward. Outlook and Honesty
Individual factors substantially influence how a boulder feels. Body size, wingspan, and climbing style all play a role in the perceived difficulty. Ultimately, climbing is driven by inspiration and the desire to tackle a line, with difficulty levels serving primarily as orientation tools. However, this system relies on honesty and a willingness to set aside ego. “Admitting that you don’t like certain movements or styles is a key part of identifying difficulties,” Bosi noted. He wryly observed that, to those unfamiliar with the sport, the grading system might seem like “the worst rating system ever.”
Training Philosophies: Rock Over Routine
Significant differences exist between indoor and outdoor bouldering training approaches. graham eschews traditional strength or hangboard sessions, preferring to train directly on the rock. His regimen consists of working on projects, establishing new boulders, and simply climbing. “I don’t train to train,” the 44-year-old stated. “When I see people doing modern training, I often ask myself: Do you want to train or do you want to climb?” Bosi echoed this sentiment, noting that many outdoor boulderers are not fans of structured training plans, though rest days are universally acknowledged as essential. “Dave’s rest days are mountain hikes!” Bosi laughed.”he than looks for new boulders or crystals. Seriously, I need days off from his days off.”
The Allure of Outdoor Bouldering and the “puzzle” of the Rock
Both climbers have experience with route setting, but ultimately find themselves drawn to the challenges of outdoor bouldering. Bosi, who worked in a climbing gym in Edinburgh after school, enjoys the creative process of designing playful boulders. However, he finds the outdoor surroundings more compelling. For Bosi, route setting involves creating the puzzle, while outdoor bouldering requires deciphering a puzzle already presented by nature – a puzzle that is inherently more complex. He described his approach to projects like Realm of Tor’ment as a process of experimentation, discarding movements, and ultimately finding the correct sequence. “I love sudokus and puzzles,” Bosi saeid, “and that’s exactly why exploring bouldering on the rock is so much fun for me.”
Graham believes there is “a lifetime of bouldering ahead of us because there is a lifetime of bouldering problems to try.”
You can watch the full interview with Will Bosi and Dave Graham on their YouTube channel for a deeper dive into these topics.
+++Credits: Cover photo: Kevin Altmann
