Desi Pubs: How South Asian Landlords Are Revitalizing British Communities
A tantalizing spread of food – a sizzling mixed grill platter, blistered naans, and punchy curries – fills the air with the aroma of spice and smoke, accompanied by the clink of pint glasses and the vibrant beats of Punjabi bhangra music. This scene, increasingly common in the Midlands, represents a growing phenomenon: the rise of Desi pubs, transforming struggling British pubs into thriving communal hubs.
These establishments are the result of South Asian landlords fusing the traditional warmth of the British pub with the rich hospitality, food, and culture of the South Asian diaspora. “We’re proud of what we’ve achieved – creating jobs in the community. We’re breaking down barriers, we’re creating social cohesion,” a landlord in West Bromwich stated.
The story began in the latter half of the 20th century, as increasing numbers of people from India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh arrived in the UK. In 1997, Jeet Purewal took over the Red Lion pub in West Bromwich when the brewery sought new ownership, marking one of the first such transitions in the region. This was not an isolated incident; several pubs across the Midlands were acquired by South Asian entrepreneurs.
However, this influx of new communities was not without its challenges. Racial discrimination was rampant, and many pubs actively barred people of color from entry, despite legislation outlawing such practices in 1965. The persistence of prejudice even prompted a meeting between American civil rights activist Malcolm X and Avtar Singh Jouhl from the Indian Worker’s Association (IWA) in Smethwick in 1965. Notably, Malcolm X was himself refused service at the nearby Blue Gates pub during his visit – a moment now commemorated in stained glass art at the Red Lion.
Over the decades, Desi pubs have not only survived but flourished. “We were one of the early ones,” a pub owner recalled, “and then it started to get really, really popular and more and more people embraced it.” This growth, however, coincides with rising concerns about a resurgence of racism and discrimination across the UK, with the Midlands at the forefront of this trend.
For many landlords, their pubs represent a powerful symbol of diversity. “Our customers are very aware that we’re a melting pot of loads of different cultures, all mixing together and being able to sit down together,” one landlord explained. “We don’t just get Indian clientele. We get loads of English people, the Black community, the Muslim community.” He continued, “When you start sitting down with people you realize actually there’s very little difference between us – we all do the same thing; we all go to work, we come back and we all worry about the kids. By having pubs like ours, it breaks down those barriers that might exist.”
Amrik Singh Saini, the landlord of the Royal Oak in West Bromwich, echoes this sentiment, noting that his pub welcomes people from all backgrounds. Located in Handsworth, a Birmingham neighborhood recently described by former Conservative MP Robert Jenrick as “one of the worst integrated places” he had visited, Saini disputes this assessment. He stated he “always” sees white faces at his pub, and regularly serves fans of West Bromwich Albion, both home and away.
The Royal Oak itself embodies this cultural fusion. Dedicated to the late Punjabi musician Sidhu Moose Wala, the pub features paintings of the artist alongside statues of the Queen’s Guards. “Different communities mix together,” Saini affirmed. He acknowledged the “hard work” involved in establishing and renovating the pub, emphasizing that success requires more than simply adding a mixed grill to the menu. He noted that Desi pubs are currently experiencing a boom in business.
These pubs are more than just businesses; they are spaces where communities connect, and where shared experiences can challenge prejudice and foster understanding. They represent a vibrant and evolving aspect of British culture, demonstrating the power of hospitality to bridge divides and build a more inclusive society.
