2023-12-30 18:24:15
Presenting the art of cabaret in the middle of the Bourbonnais countryside, a crazy idea? Not so much, because, contrary to popular belief, the majority of cabarets in France are not located in the City of Lights but most often around medium-sized towns in the region, such as the famous Royal Palace in Kirrwiller, in Bas-Rhin. For its new exhibition, however, the National Center for Costume and Stage, located in Moulins in Allier, mainly presents current costumes from the great Parisian cabarets. The extravagant rhinestone and feather outfits will return to their respective stages at the end of the event, scheduled for April 30.
Red neon, soft sofa and glittery floor: the world of the night party is revealed with panache from the first room. The recognizable silhouette of Michou, satin blue suit and glass of champagne in hand, welcomes visitors with open arms within a reconstructed artist’s foyer and dressing room. A soundtrack perfects the immersion by broadcasting real discussions of spectators waiting for the start of the show. Alongside the cabaret director, other costumes are already displaying luxurious materials. Downy ostrich feathers rub shoulders with white egret feathers on a headdress that belonged to Line Renaud, star entertainer at the Paris Casino and then Las Vegas in the 1960s.
The cabaret, a place of freedom and emancipation
“Cabaret is a sophisticated and popular art at the same time, the idea is to show that everyone knows it even without having been there! “, exclaims the co-curator of the exhibition and director of the center, Delphine Pinasa, in front of a gallery of celebrity portraits. Places of freedom, emancipation and social diversity, cabarets have always paid increased attention to their audience, generally seated around a meal. François Gauthier-Lafaye, scenographer of the exhibition, also wanted to work on proximity with visitors by “mitigating madness » large windows, presented as scenes strewn with confetti. “ We wanted to give the impression of cocoons and bring poetry, particularly by working with light,” he explains in front of the stone walls of the museum.
Jean-Paul Gautier dress worn by Conchita Wurst at Crazy Horse, Paris / Florent GIFFARD / CNCS
Each room equally honors a house and we admire the details of the majestic outfits, a clever mix of haute couture and D system to meet the technical requirements of a show borrowing from dance, circus, in the theater, in burlesque… So many graceful dioramas of female bodies sculpted with elegance and sensuality by corsets, feathers and brilliant jewelry! Among the outfits, some delightful extravagances, such as a high-cut Napoleon costume in the Latin Paradis style, or a curious corseted dress in noodle-patterned oilcloth. The exhibition also gives pride of place to the new wave of independent creators, who revisit the codes of the genre with fantastic or “monstrous” creatures.
Staged leaf stripping
The room dedicated to leaf stripping illustrates one of the biggest challenges of the exhibition. “How do we show the different stages of this number where the costume is broken down into four parts? », asks co-curator Annabel Poincheval, also inspector of theatrical creation at the Ministry of Culture, who has commissioned an inventory of the art of cabaret and music hall. In order to clearly understand the staging of the show, arms were added to the models, giving them the appearance of Shiva.
The journey concludes in majesty in a huge room draped in blue, recreating a cabaret finale. In front of three round tables, a black and white cape ten meters long and six wide spills dramatically onto a staircase. Designed for the Folies Bergère, it was ultimately never worn. To her left, a multicolored beaded dress by Line Renaud bids us farewell. The circle is complete, and in style!
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From transformation mask to revue dance
Thursday January 4 : workshop for creating a transformation mask. From 4 to 10 years old, at 10:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m., €7.
Saturday January 20 : introductory workshop to revue dance. From 15 years old, at 2 p.m., €30.
Saturday March 9 : children’s cabaret afternoon, entertainment and performances. From 2 p.m. to 6 p.m., all public, free.
Friday 22 March : evening show on Louise Weber, known as “La Goulue”. At 8 p.m., from 15 years old, €25.
Saturday April 6 : conference by Caroline Valentin on her job as a costume embroiderer. At 2:30 p.m., from 15 years old, €5.
Complete programming on site www.cncs.fr
Until April 30, 2024 at the National Costume and Stage Center, in Moulins (Allier). From €5 to €9, open every day except January 1. Reservation recommended on www.cncs.fr or at 04.70.20.76.20.
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