Frieze Art Fair: Where Bold Fashion Meets the Art World
London’s Frieze art fair has become a vibrant intersection of artistic expression and high fashion, attracting a diverse crowd willing to experiment with style – and, according to one attendee, eschew black altogether.
The lines between art and fashion have long been blurred, but the influence of style at Frieze, which showcased over 300 galleries and artists from Lauren Halsey to Gilbert & George this October, has demonstrably grown over the past decade. Unlike the exclusivity of traditional fashion weeks, Frieze is open to the public – for a ticket price of approximately £60 – creating a unique atmosphere that’s become a magnet for street style photographers.
“When you are at the art fair, you push the fashion to be bold and experiment – no black allowed,” declared Belma Gaudio, founder of the Koibird boutique and an avid art collector, at the fair’s opening. Gaudio herself exemplified this sentiment, sporting a bright green Hermès bag and self-designed knitted co-ords adorned with insect imagery.
This year’s fair saw attendees mixing neutral tones with striking pops of color. The crowd reflected a spectrum of wealth and creativity, with visible displays of affluence – including Birkin bags and subtle cosmetic enhancements – alongside more understated, fashion-forward looks. As one observer noted, the event facilitates a rare opportunity to “get dressed up for a day event.”
However, overt displays of wealth aren’t universally embraced. A writer at the fair, seen wearing a Prada skirt and Alaïa bag, explained that he deliberately toned down his outfit, stating, “When there’s so much wealth and status signifiers in the room, I don’t want to be associated with that.” This highlights a nuanced dynamic at play, where self-expression coexists with a degree of social awareness.
Fashion brands are keenly aware of this dynamic and are actively participating. Dunhill, Stone Island, Loewe, and Nanushka are official partners of the fair, integrating their branding into the event. Representatives from Dunhill and Dover Street Market reported increased foot traffic during Frieze week, signaling the event’s growing commercial significance.
The relationship between art and fashion is increasingly reciprocal. Koibird recently launched a collection created in collaboration with artist James Shaw, further solidifying the connection. Prada, often considered one of the most artistically inclined fashion houses, opened “Prada Mode” in King’s Cross during Frieze week. This installation, featuring a collaboration with Danish art duo Elmgreen & Dragset, presents an intentionally blurred film within a “cinema” setting populated by hyper-realistic sculptures – one of which, naturally, is wearing Prada.
This project echoes the artists’ earlier work, “Prada Marfa,” a replica Prada store erected in the Texas desert two decades ago. Originally intended as a commentary on the excesses of land art, the installation has since become a cultural landmark, even appearing in a Beyoncé and Solange selfie in 2012 and an episode of The Simpsons in 2019. Prada granted permission for the use of its logo and provided designs for the store, marking an early, informal collaboration.
The influence extends beyond Prada. JW Anderson incorporated paintings by Jean Siméon Chardin into his Dior show, Roksanda Ilinčić drew inspiration from Barbara Hepworth for her latest collection, and Bottega Veneta featured a sculpture by Kwangho Lee on its catwalk.
Artists, too, are finding inspiration in fashion. Naomi Lulendo, a first-time exhibitor at Frieze, uses fabric and clothing in her work, stating, “Clothing is projecting something… and since everybody’s projecting something on to you, you have a kind of control.” She described her own style as a balance between “comfortable and also a bit classy and sassy and chic.” London-based designer Bianca Saunders, who collaborated with the Tate on designs inspired by William Blake, emphasized the importance of art in her creative process, noting she frequently visits galleries when feeling creatively blocked.
Elmgreen & Dragset believe the accessibility of Frieze – the fact that anyone with a ticket can attend – is key to its appeal for both the fashion and art worlds. “It’s not only for the selected few who have the money to buy the art,” Elmgreen explained. “I think the fashion world is interested in a group of people that they can reach through the art. And the artist is definitely also interested in a group of people they can reach through the fashion world.”
