2023-05-15 07:13:11
And if the most gourmet street in Italy wasn’t it in a big city, in Milan, Naples or Rome but in a small town? It’s hard not to get this thought walking along via della Torre Clementina, in Fiumicino. This coastal town, which until 1992, when it became an independent municipality, was a district of Rome, has traditionally always been a destination for the citizens of the capital. Who at the weekend got up (and continue to get up) by car and, with a quick trip out of town, covered the 25-30 kilometers that separated them from a coveted “fish meal”. And from a somewhat suspended atmosphere of a seaside village, with fishing boats moored at the pier, seagulls circling and the salty sea breeze to season everything (although often mixed with the scents of hundreds of fried fish).
Dozens of restaurants and trattorias, for every taste and budget, many of which overlook the central and strategic via della Torre Clementina. Starting with what more than others has made the history of the city’s gastronomy, “Bastianelli at the Molo”, until it closed a few years ago (which was followed by several new managements). A place that especially in the sixties, seventies and eighties became a beacon for seafood cuisine not only in Lazio. As the 1989 section of the Espresso Guide recounts, “in the hands of Ezio Bastianelli and his wife Mimma, the restaurant’s cuisine changed the ways of eating fish on the Tyrrhenian Sea. All the fish restaurateurs came here to learn the secrets of these new, curious, stimulating recipes that upset the ancient ways of eating fish”.
But moving from history to current events, one is struck by what has happened, and is happening, in recent years, with the proliferation of new openings (and the renewal of the more historic ones) which, in a choral rather than solo afflatus, are making Fiumicino one of the most interesting destinations gastronomy of Italy. And therefore, personal opinion but not too much, of the world. Starred restaurants, avant-garde pizzerias, design venues. And again: historic fishmongers, oyster shops, pastry shops. The average level is very high, and some excellences are at the top of the national rankings. You will find much of this treasure of flavors along this long straight road that runs alongside the pier, from the city center to the romantic red lighthouse suspended over the sea. But also in other areas of the municipality (and of some a mention is necessary, because it cannot be ignored, as in the case of the starred Pascucci al Porticciolo and Il Tino) up to the holiday village of Fregene, which hosts many of the best seafood restaurants, from the bathroom by Benny Gili at Lifeboat from Salvatore up to the historic Mastiff.
With a happy linguistic intuition A few years ago, someone began to define this intertwining of knowledge and flavors as an “iodated periphery”. Definition that later became the name of an association of restaurateurs who proudly claim the uniqueness of this area and fight to enhance it. Outskirts of the metropolis, of course, but the center of marine taste. So let’s walk along via della Torre Clementina telling, in necessary synthesis, the places we have selected for you (but also others would not have disfigured in this list).
The Osteria dell’Orologio in Fiumicino: how many gourmet tables around the port
Manuela Zennaro
Let’s start fromClock Tavern. If there’s one word that comes to mind as you sit down at one of her tables, it’s “fun.” In just a few years, chef Marco Claroni has been able to create an amusement park of sea flavors with surprising inventiveness. Try to let him have a free hand and it will be a succession of small tastes that cannot leave you indifferent. Not to mention the great work on seafood, which is a trademark here. Personal and interesting wine selection curated by chef Gerarda Fine’s wife.
Among the most interesting novelties of the pizza world (and not only), Clementine in a short time she managed to conquer everyone. A pizzeria, yes, but with the environment, raw materials and creativity of a top-level restaurant. Luca Pezzetta is at ease with any type of dough, from the classic Roman to the pan. His creations are proof that the marriage between pizza and fish cuisine is possible and profitable. In the hall grand master of ceremonies Daniele Mari.
The sea commands the heart (and pizza): Clementina, the new adventure by Luca Pezzetta
by Manuela Zennaro
When some of the best restaurateurs in the area tell you: “If I want to eat fresh, quality fish, I go there”, you can play it safe. The Navy, led by Alessandro Pietrini, who deeply loves the sea and its products, and treats them with respect. Convinced as he is that if the raw material is of a high standard, the chef’s task is above all not to spoil it. And it does it quite well.
Very recent opening that of Fools, a place born thanks to important investments. Cosmopolitan atmosphere, bistro, lounge bar, restaurant. Many souls, from the easy one to the more chic one, all curated by chef Daniele Celso. In short, a place that you would expect made in the USA and not in Fiumicino.
A few meters away here is a reality that seems to have come out of the 60s: the appearance is that of a pizzeria by the slice like many others, yet Sancho it is an institution, loved not only by customers but also by pizza masters like Gabriele Bonci.
At the beginning of the route, in a somewhat hidden position, another novelty with a few months to live: Borgo Salino. The name is beautiful, the dining room is beautiful, the cuisine is good and with room for growth, which is influenced by the Campanian origins of chef Agostino Valente.
If you love oysters and good wines, this is the place for you. atOyster shop Paola Isopo will welcome you, with a strong character and great competence, who will be able to guide you through the proposals both on the plate and in the glass.
The fish market has just turned 50 Red shrimp (but everyone knows her as Fratelli Satta). The best fish from auctions and small trusted fishing boats lands on the marble bambi. Also try the dishes ready to take home.
A few meters from via della Torre Clementina, here it is Allure. Come for the cuisine, of course, which alternates creativity with more traditional offerings. But also for desserts: one of the owners, Giampaolo Zhan, was mentored by Giuseppe Amato, pastry chef at Heinz Beck’s Pergola.
Between the castle and the sea, the sweet and tasty rest of Fregene
by Giulia Mancini
THE SELECTION
Osteria dell’Orologio: One of the most “fun” restaurants in Lazio. Give the chef a free hand, and you won’t regret it, he will surprise you with his imagination – Via della Torre Clementina
Pizzeria Clementine: The marriage between pizza and sea at the highest levels. A lot of creativity, but also a lot of balance and harmony of flavours, with any type of dough – Via della Torre Clementina 158
The Navy: Few frills, lots of substance. Here the mantra is the quality of the fish, to be treated as little as possible so as not to damage it. And they succeed very well – Via della Torre Clementina 140
Fools: It looks like Miami, it’s Fiumicino. A recently opened restaurant which, in addition to cuisine and cocktails, focuses heavily on a cosmopolitan-style environment – Via della Torre Clementina 146
Sancho’s Pizzeria: The place looks like one of the thousand pizzerias by the slice. But on the counter you will find true masterpieces of taste for dough and toppings – Via della Torre Clementina 142
Borgo Saline: Another recently opened restaurant, in a slightly secluded position. Local fish, Campania influences in the menu and a room of a certain elegance – Via della Torre Clementina 4
Oyster shop: The name of the place says it all: oysters, seafood, wines. All managed with a decisive attitude and great competence by the owner – Via della Torre Clementina 122
Gambero Rosso fish shop: The fish displayed on the old marble counters of the restaurant has few comparisons in the area: for over 50 years this fish shop has been synonymous with quality – Via della Torre Clementina 136
Allure: The cuisine, which alternates sea, creativity and pop proposals, is worth a visit. But remember to leave space for desserts, a true must of the restaurant – Viale della Pesca 43
Pascucci at the Porticciolo: Without fear of contradiction: among the best fish restaurants not in Lazio but in all of Italy. A success built year after year with constancy and dedication – Viale Traiano 85
The vat: A wedding favor with a refined taste, this restaurant, which chef Lele Usai has custom-built to best express his great talent – Via Monte Cadria 127
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