The scent of hyacinths and the vibrant hues of sabzeh – sprouted wheatgrass symbolizing rebirth – usually fill Tehran’s markets in the days leading up to Nowruz, the Persian New Year. This year, however, the preparations are muted, shadowed by the escalating tensions and recent military exchanges between Iran and Israel. Despite the anxieties, many Iranians are determined to observe the ancient traditions of Nowruz, a celebration of renewal and hope that stretches back over 3,000 years, even as the specter of conflict looms large.
The timing of this year’s Nowruz, which began on March 19th, is particularly poignant. It follows a period of heightened regional instability, sparked by the April 1st strike on the Iranian consulate in Damascus, Syria, which Iran blamed on Israel. The subsequent retaliatory strikes by Iran on April 13th, and Israel’s reported response, have raised fears of a wider conflict. The determination to celebrate Nowruz, feels like an act of defiance, a reaffirmation of cultural identity in the face of uncertainty.
A Bazaar Slowly Reawakening
For weeks, the usually bustling Tajrish Bazaar, a covered market in northern Tehran, stood largely deserted following the start of increased hostilities in late February. Many shopkeepers shuttered their doors, anticipating further escalation. But in the days immediately preceding Nowruz, a fragile sense of normalcy began to return. Ali, a 20-year-old vegetable seller, noted a gradual increase in customers seeking the traditional ingredients for the holiday.
“People are still coming to buy flowers, fresh herbs, and the goldfish,” Ali said, referring to the live goldfish traditionally kept as a symbol of life and movement during the New Year celebrations. “It’s not like other years, but it’s something. They want to feel a little bit of normal life.” The price of these traditional items has risen, however, reflecting broader economic pressures and the disruption caused by regional instability, according to local reports.
Preserving Tradition Amidst Uncertainty
In a central Tehran home, Darya, a 48-year-old painter, and her family are resolute in their commitment to observing Nowruz. “We must preserve our traditions, especially in times like these,” she emphasized. “It’s an important part of our culture, a way to connect with our history and with each other.” Darya, her husband Mohammad, 50, and their 25-year-old daughter, Masiha, a computer science graduate, carefully arranged the Haft Seen table, a centerpiece of the Nowruz celebration.
The Haft Seen consists of seven symbolic items whose names begin with the letter “S” in Persian, each representing a wish for the new year. These typically include sabzeh (wheatgrass), samanu (a sweet pudding), senjed (dried oleaster fruit), sir (garlic), sib (apple), somaq (sumac), and serkeh (vinegar). The family’s meticulous arrangement of the table reflects a desire to maintain a sense of continuity and hope despite the surrounding turmoil.
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Mohammad, 50, celebrates Nowruz with his wife, Darya, 48, and their 25-year-old daughter, Masiha.
Loss and Resilience in Shohada Square
However, for some, this Nowruz is marked by profound loss. Erfan, 28, the owner of Khooshe, a well-known pastry shop in Tehran’s Shohada Square, is grappling with the aftermath of an airstrike that severely damaged his business. The shop, founded by his grandfather over 60 years ago, now lies in ruins, its windows shattered, ovens destroyed, and debris scattered throughout.
“Business had already been difficult since the protests in January,” Erfan said, referring to the widespread demonstrations that began in late 2022 and continued into 2023. “Now, with the shop destroyed, all I can focus on is rebuilding.” He paused, his voice heavy with emotion. “We have always celebrated Nowruz, but this year, I feel a deep lack of motivation.” The attack on the Tehran Province Electricity Distribution Company in Shohada Square, which housed Khooshe, has been widely reported, though details regarding responsibility remain contested. Reuters reported on April 1st that Iran blamed Israel for the strike.
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Erfan, the owner of one of Tehran’s well-known pastry shops, Khooshe, in the city’s Shohada Square.
Despite the devastation, Erfan expressed a desire for positive change in Iran, but not through violence. “If the US wanted to, they could bring positive change,” he stated. “Right now, what matters most is that our government accelerates policy reforms.”
A Diminished Chaharshanbe Suri
The traditional fire festival, Chaharshanbe Suri, held on the last Wednesday before Nowruz, was similarly subdued this year. Traditionally, crowds gather on hills overlooking Tehran, setting off fireworks and jumping over bonfires, symbolizing the casting off of misfortune. This year, however, the streets remained largely empty, with only little, scattered gatherings lighting fires. The atmosphere was markedly different from the vibrant celebrations of previous years.
Hope Amidst Hardship
Despite the challenges, many Iranian families are striving to maintain a sense of normalcy. Hassan, 56, who runs a flower shop in northern Tehran with his daughter Sajedeh, 26, described the difficulties they faced. “At the start of the conflict, we purchased a large stock of flowers, but 90% of them spoiled before we could sell them,” he said. “Nowruz is usually our busiest time, but we’re currently selling only about 5% of our usual volume.”
Sajedeh added, “Even during wartime, even if we don’t develop sales, we have to maintain the shop open. When people pass by and see the flowers, see the open shop, it gives them hope.” Hassan’s birthday traditionally falls on the first day of Nowruz, and in past years, the shop would be filled with customers, allowing him to celebrate with his family amidst the bustle. This year, the celebration will be quieter, but the sentiment remains.
As Iran enters the new year, the path ahead remains uncertain. The immediate focus will be on the regional response to the recent military exchanges and the potential for further escalation. The Iranian government has indicated it does not seek further conflict, but has vowed to respond to any further attacks on its territory. The coming weeks will be critical in determining whether the current tensions can be de-escalated. For now, many Iranians are finding solace in the enduring traditions of Nowruz, a testament to their resilience and a hopeful embrace of a new beginning.
If you are feeling anxious or overwhelmed by the current events, resources are available. You can reach the Crisis Text Line by texting HOME to 741741, or call the National Alliance on Mental Illness (NAMI) helpline at 1-800-950-NAMI (6264).
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