The art of entertaining at home feels, for many, like a lost skill. A casualty of busy schedules, takeout culture, and the ever-present glow of screens. But a quiet rebellion is underway, fueled by a desire for connection and a renewed appreciation for the simple pleasure of a shared meal. Leading this charge is Jago Rackham, a 31-year-vintage writer whose forthcoming debut, To Entertain: Instructions for a Dinner Party, isn’t just a cookbook – it’s a manifesto for convivial living. Rackham’s approach to hosting isn’t about perfection; it’s about intention, atmosphere, and a generous spirit. It’s about remembering that the point isn’t the presentation, but the people around the table.
Rackham’s philosophy crystallized during the COVID-19 lockdowns, a period he describes as a forced return to domesticity. “We had nothing to think of but our table and stomachs,” he recalls, referencing an Easter lunch that became the seed for the book. That meal, a meticulously prepared Duck Presented in a Classical Manner – stuffed with fennel, adorned with primroses, and served with golden roast potatoes – wasn’t about showing off culinary prowess. It was about creating a moment of beauty and connection in a time of uncertainty. The recipe, and the book itself, represent a deliberate step away from the hyper-stylized, often unattainable, food trends that dominated the early 21st century.
A Return to Retro Hospitality
To Entertain is, intentionally, a throwback. The recipes within – proper custard, classic trifle, hearty leek and potato soup, sluggish-roasted salmon – are rooted in traditional English cuisine, a style that fell out of favor but is now experiencing a resurgence. This isn’t nostalgia for nostalgia’s sake, however. Rackham sees value in the practicality and comforting familiarity of these dishes. “There’s a reason these recipes have endured,” he explains. “They’re delicious, they’re satisfying, and they’re often surprisingly simple.” He’s not advocating for a rigid adherence to the past, but rather a mindful borrowing of its best elements.
The book’s aesthetic, too, reflects this retro sensibility. Illustrated by artist Faye Wei Wei, the pages are filled with charming, hand-drawn images that evoke a sense of warmth, and intimacy. This visual style, combined with Rackham’s writing, creates a cohesive and inviting experience. His prose, honed through his popular Substack newsletter “Greed,” has drawn comparisons to the work of British cookery writer Elizabeth David. As Rackham recounts, “The nicest thing my agent has ever said to me was, ‘You write like a woman.’” He attributes this to a focus on sensory detail and a willingness to embrace the emotional resonance of food.
Beyond the Recipe: Cultivating Atmosphere
But To Entertain is more than just a collection of recipes. It’s a guide to creating a welcoming and relaxed atmosphere. Rackham emphasizes the importance of setting the scene – from the lighting and music to the table setting and the flow of conversation. He advocates for a slower pace, encouraging hosts to spend time preparing not just the food, but also themselves. “Don’t be afraid to be a little bit messy,” he advises. “A perfectly polished dinner party can experience sterile. It’s the imperfections that make it feel real.”
A recent lunch at Rackham’s East London flat, tucked away near Brick Lane, offered a glimpse into this philosophy in practice. Guests included Hanna Girma, a curator at the Serpentine Galleries; Joana Kohen, a creative director; Song-I Saba, a writer and co-founder of the artisanal tinned fish company Pyscis; Gray Wielebinski, an artist; and Rackham’s girlfriend, artist Lowena Hearn, along with their white cat, Andromeda. The meal, of course, featured the Duck Presented in a Classical Manner, a dish that embodies Rackham’s approach to entertaining: thoughtful, seasonal, and deeply satisfying.
The Influence of Place and Music
Rackham’s writing often reflects a strong sense of place. His English Summer Minestra, for example, is directly tied to the experience of tending a garden with his sister while listening to Doja Cat. This connection between food, environment, and personal experience is central to his approach. He believes that the best meals are those that are deeply rooted in a specific time and place. He’s also a firm believer in the power of music to set the mood, often curating playlists that complement the food and the company.
This holistic approach to entertaining – one that considers not just the food but also the atmosphere, the conversation, and the emotional connection between guests – is what sets Rackham apart. He’s not offering a set of rules to follow, but rather a framework for creating meaningful experiences. He’s reminding us that the most critical ingredient in any dinner party isn’t a rare spice or a complicated technique, but simply the willingness to share a meal with people you care about.
To Entertain: Instructions for a Dinner Party is slated for release in early 2025. Rackham is currently promoting the book through his Substack, “Greed,” where he continues to share recipes, essays, and insights into the art of convivial living. Readers can expect further details on book signings and events in the coming months. The resurgence of home entertaining, it seems, is only just beginning, and Jago Rackham is poised to be one of its leading voices.
If you’re looking to elevate your own hosting game, consider starting small. Focus on creating a welcoming atmosphere, choosing a simple but delicious menu, and most importantly, being present with your guests. The goal isn’t to impress, but to connect. And remember, as Rackham suggests, a little bit of messiness can be a good thing.
Do you have any favorite recipes or hosting tips? Share them in the comments below, and let’s continue the conversation!
