Marcus Samuelsson: African Cuisine Doesn’t Need Western Approval – It Owns the Future of Fine Dining
A celebrated chef argues that the continent’s rich culinary traditions are not emerging, but have always been present, and should be celebrated on their own terms.
Marcus Samuelsson, the acclaimed Ethiopian Swedish chef, doesn’t frame African cuisine as a trend on the rise. He asserts it’s a deeply rooted, spiritually grounded, and quietly confident culinary force that has existed independently of Western recognition. “We know our food is incredible,” Samuelsson told CNN’s Larry Madowo. “It’s delicious. It’s connected to our spirituality. It’s connected to our history. So why should the standards have to come from outside?”
The award-winning chef – recognized as the youngest to earn a three-star review from The New York Times, a champion on Bravo’s Top Chef Masters, and a culinary force for presidents and world leaders – believes a fundamental misunderstanding of African food stems from a reliance on external validation. He argues its future lies in African ownership.
Samuelsson is actively working to dismantle the notion of a monolithic “African cuisine,” advocating for a reframing of the continent’s diverse food cultures on a global stage. “Africa is a continent,” he emphasizes. “Senegalese food is different from Ethiopian food. Moroccan food is different from South African food. But sometimes when people talk about Africa, they talk about it like it’s one thing.” This homogenization, he explains, has hindered the recognition of Africa’s inherent culinary sophistication – not because it’s lacking, but because it hasn’t been presented on its own terms. “Fine dining in Africa is not new to us,” Samuelsson states. “It’s new to the world.”
A Legacy of Technique and Tradition
African food traditions, Samuelsson notes, already embody the core tenets of fine dining: technique, storytelling, ritual, community, and terroir – the unique character of a dish shaped by geography, climate, and history. Centuries-old fermentation methods and complex spice blending demonstrate a depth and sophistication that has always been present. “Our food is connected to whether you’re coastal or landlocked, tribal or urban,” he says. “That’s a rich history. That’s enough to set our own guidelines.”
Samuelsson’s commitment to African culinary leadership is not merely philosophical; it’s actively demonstrated through his investments, particularly in Ethiopia, where he recently opened a restaurant in Addis Ababa, situated atop one of East Africa’s tallest buildings. However, the project transcends mere spectacle.
“If you look down from the restaurant, there’s a small school just a couple of blocks away,” he explains. “Those students are cooking students who now work in the restaurant. It’s literally a pathway into hospitality.” He challenges the narrative that success for young Africans requires emigration. “We’re very often taught, ‘You’re talented, you should go to London, you should go to New York,’” he says. “My thing is, you should also be able to stay in your country and do very well.”
Hospitality as a Catalyst for Growth
For Samuelsson, hospitality extends beyond food, encompassing agriculture, tourism, education, and economic empowerment. “If African nations truly see the value of hospitality, it changes everything,” he explains. “It strengthens the economy. It builds pride. It gives people a reason to invest at home.”
Born in Ethiopia and adopted by a Swedish family, Samuelsson’s personal journey navigating multiple cultures – often without access to his roots – profoundly shaped his identity. “When you’re adopted, you live your identity almost backwards,” he reflects. “Food and culture gave me that identity.” This experience instilled in him a deep understanding of the importance of representation, particularly in an industry where it was historically scarce. “I never found cookbooks by people who looked like me,” he recalls. “So, I knew that if I ever had my own kitchen, I would hire women and people of color.”
As his career flourished, this conviction evolved into a responsibility. Early in his training in New York’s demanding restaurant kitchens, Samuelsson learned the importance of humility and dedication – a mindset encapsulated in the phrase “Yes, chef,” the title of his autobiography. “As a young chef, you show up and say ‘yes, chef,’” he explains. “As an owner, you choose who you hire, who you buy from, and who you bring into the space. That’s where change happens.” Today, many chefs who trained under Samuelsson are establishing their own restaurants across Africa, a source of immense pride for him.
Following the Blueprint of Afrobeats
Samuelsson draws a parallel between the rise of African fine dining and the global success of African music genres like Afrobeats and Amapiano, which first cultivated loyal audiences within the continent. “They didn’t look to the West to create their culture,” he says. “They just made sure it was dope, that it was incredible. And now they set the standard.”
He believes food is poised to follow a similar trajectory. “We have a billion people,” Samuelsson asserts. “Why should the standards have to come from outside?” This philosophy is evident in his restaurants – from Harlem and Washington, DC, to Stockholm and Addis Ababa – where menus blend traditional dishes with modern techniques, music reflects local culture, and spaces are designed to foster a sense of belonging.
“When you come into our restaurants, you should feel welcome,” he says. “You should recognize yourself — or discover something new.” For Samuelsson, fine dining isn’t about exclusivity; it’s about creating meaningful experiences. “No one comes to our restaurants because they’re hungry,” he says. “They come for an experience.” That experience, he insists, must be rooted in respect. “I always ask myself; do I understand the cultural background of this dish?” he says. “If I don’t feel I fully understand it, I stay away from it.”
As African culture continues to influence global fashion, music, and art, Samuelsson is confident that food will be next. “The future is in Africa,” he says. “And when it comes to fine dining, we don’t need approval. We already have everything we need.”
