Dandong, China – Wang Meili, a 68-year-old retiree, clutches her passport, a symbol of hope for a return to a life interrupted. For six years, the border city of Dandong has felt the economic chill of a closed North Korea, a nation once teeming with Chinese tourists. Now, with tentative signs of reconnection – daily passenger trains resumed in March and Air China is set to restart flights on Monday – a quiet anticipation is building. But the key to unlocking tourism, and the economic boost it would bring, remains firmly in Pyongyang’s hands. The question on everyone’s mind: when will North Korea issue tourist visas again?
The city of Dandong, strategically positioned along the Yalu River, has long served as the primary gateway for trade and travel between North Korea and the rest of the world. The resumption of rail and air links, however, is currently dominated by students, workers, and families reuniting, not leisure travelers. The potential economic impact of a full reopening is significant, particularly for a city that relied heavily on tourism revenue before the COVID-19 pandemic. The wait for visas, is not merely a matter of wanderlust, but of livelihoods.
The Yalu River, roughly 700 meters wide, physically and symbolically divides the two countries. A partially destroyed bridge, a stark reminder of the Korean War (1950-1953), stands as a poignant backdrop for those observing North Korea from afar. Tourists gather on the Chinese side, binoculars raised, peering across the water, while brief river cruises offer glimpses into the daily lives of North Koreans. This limited access, however, is a far cry from the immersive experiences that once drew visitors to the Hermit Kingdom. The current situation highlights the complex interplay between political restrictions and economic realities.
“We can only wait for news regarding visas,” says Li Shuo, a manager at a Dandong travel agency, reflecting the sentiment of many in the industry. His agency, like others, has pivoted to domestic tourism to survive the prolonged closure, offering excursions to border areas that provide only a distant view of North Korea. The resumption of train service hasn’t yet translated into increased business. “If tourism to North Korea were to resume, it would be a good thing for Chinese tourists,” Li explains, “because many people seek to go.”
A Complex Relationship, Economic Lifeline
China remains North Korea’s most essential economic partner, providing a crucial lifeline in the face of stringent United Nations sanctions imposed due to its nuclear weapons program. Trade between the two nations reached $2.7 billion (approximately €2.3 billion) in 2023, nearly returning to pre-pandemic levels, according to Chinese customs data. Reuters reported on this rebound in January 2024, highlighting the continued importance of this economic connection.
Recent observations by Agence France-Presse (AFP) journalists confirm a steady flow of goods crossing the Dandong bridge by both train and truck, demonstrating the ongoing trade relationship. This commerce is vital for North Korea, particularly as it navigates international isolation. However, the resumption of trade doesn’t automatically equate to a loosening of restrictions on foreign visitors.
The complete closure of North Korea’s borders in January 2020 stranded thousands of its citizens abroad for years. While travel restrictions have eased somewhat, the process remains tightly controlled. A growing number of North Korean workers are also employed in restaurants in Chinese cities, a practice that continues despite UN sanctions aimed at preventing funds from being channeled into Pyongyang’s weapons programs. Reports from Western experts suggest these workers often endure harsh living and working conditions, with a significant portion of their earnings being confiscated by the North Korean state.
Beyond Economics: Curiosity and Caution
The allure of North Korea extends beyond economic considerations, attracting a degree of fascination from international travelers. Louis Lamb, a 22-year-old nurse from Brisbane, Australia, expressed a desire to visit “at least once in his life.” He believes experiencing the country firsthand would offer a more nuanced understanding than what is presented in the media. “You can see North Korea from a certain angle through our media,” Lamb said, “but going there to see things with your own eyes is much more interesting.” He described portions of the North Korean side of the river as “desolate,” but also acknowledged it appeared “more developed than I imagined.”
However, not everyone shares this curiosity. One Chinese tourist, speaking anonymously to AFP, expressed skepticism about visiting North Korea, stating, “There, it’s totalitarian, people are brainwashed. Here in China too, but not as strong.” This sentiment underscores the complex perceptions surrounding the country and the concerns about political control and individual freedoms.
The presence of high fences and barbed wire along the road leading north from Dandong serves as a stark reminder of the strict border controls in place to prevent illegal crossings into China. These measures reflect the ongoing security concerns and the desire to maintain control over movement in and out of the country.
Several restaurants in Dandong employ North Korean staff. One waitress from Pyongyang told AFP that travel between the two countries has turn into easier recently and that she plans to return home soon after more than six years in China. This anecdotal evidence suggests a gradual easing of restrictions, but it doesn’t necessarily indicate a broader opening to tourism.
Looking Ahead
The future of tourism to North Korea remains uncertain. While the resumption of transportation links is a positive step, the issuance of tourist visas remains the critical hurdle. The decision rests solely with Pyongyang, and is likely tied to broader political considerations and the ongoing sanctions regime. For the residents of Dandong, and the wider tourism industry, the wait continues. The next key indicator will be any official announcement from North Korean authorities regarding visa policies.
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