TEHRAN, Iran — Iranians are marking Nowruz, the Persian New Year, under the shadow of war for the first time in decades. The celebrations, which began Friday, are unfolding against a backdrop of ongoing bombardment from United States and Israeli warplanes, a near-total internet shutdown, and escalating tensions that have gripped the nation for nearly three weeks. Despite the conflict, many are determined to uphold the ancient traditions of Nowruz, a celebration of renewal and hope.
The spring equinox, which marks the start of the new year, occurred at 18:15:59 local time (14:45:59 GMT) on Friday. While the usual boisterous festivities are muted, reports indicate that people queued at markets in Tehran and other cities to purchase flowers and exchange greetings. The sound of air defense batteries firing intermittently after the new year, in what some described as a celebratory gesture, was punctuated by cheers and chants of “Death to the dictator” from rooftops and windows, according to eyewitness accounts.
“We’ve been mostly hunkered down at home, but regardless of the bombs and missiles, Nowruz is always a blessed time, and we will give it value as people have been for millennia,” said Ghazal, a Tehran resident who requested anonymity, speaking to Al Jazeera. Her sentiment reflects a widespread desire to maintain a sense of normalcy amidst the escalating conflict and uncertainty about the future.
A City Returning, Slowly
While the war has prompted some to flee their homes, there are signs that Tehran is slowly returning to a semblance of activity. Residents report the city feels more crowded this week compared to the immediate aftermath of the conflict’s start, as people cautiously return to their homes. Traffic, though still significantly reduced, was visible on Friday as spring rain fell, a stark contrast to the usual bustling streets. However, the presence of fighter jets and drones overhead serves as a constant reminder of the ongoing hostilities.
The Iranian government has assured citizens that fuel supplies remain stable despite earlier bombings of oil depots, allowing individuals to purchase 30 liters (eight gallons) per day using their fuel cards. Authorities too state that blood banks are adequately stocked due to consistent donations since the war began on February 28.
Digital Darkness and Remembering the Fallen
A defining feature of this Nowruz is the unprecedented digital isolation imposed on the Iranian people. For the 21st consecutive day, the state maintains a near-total internet shutdown, restricting access to information and communication to a heavily controlled intranet. Internet observatory NetBlocks reports that connectivity is now less than 1% of previous levels, severely limiting access to the outside world. This digital blackout has created a black market for global connectivity, but for most Iranians, access remains severely restricted.
Amidst the wartime Nowruz, traditional customs continue to hold significance. In the days leading up to the new year, families across Iran’s 31 provinces visited the graves of loved ones, a longstanding tradition. However, for many, these visits were particularly poignant, reopening wounds from the violent suppression of nationwide protests in January. Footage circulating online showed the mother of Sepehr Shokri, a 19-year-classic killed while protesting in Tehran, grieving at his gravesite, accusing authorities of threats against her family.
Escalating Conflict and State Response
The backdrop to these celebrations is a rapidly escalating conflict. The United States and Israel have stated their desire to see a change in the Iranian government, and Iranian authorities are actively encouraging supporters to demonstrate their allegiance by taking to the streets, particularly as daylight fades. State-sponsored events, including those coinciding with the Muslim festival of Eid al-Fitr, are being organized to rally support.
Recent days have seen a series of high-profile killings of Iranian officials, including security chief Ali Larijani, Basij head Gholamreza Soleimani, IRGC spokesperson Ali Mohammad Naini, and Intelligence Minister Esmail Khatib. The IRGC reported that 13 Basijis were killed and 18 wounded in a checkpoint attack in Tabriz, East Azerbaijan province, on Thursday. Authorities are urging citizens not to share footage of impact sites or checkpoints, warning of severe legal consequences, including asset confiscation and execution.
The government’s crackdown on dissent continues, with three young men, including a national wrestling champion, executed in the days leading up to Nowruz on charges related to the January protests. Rights groups allege these executions were carried out without fair trials and based on confessions obtained through torture, accusations Iranian authorities deny. A man with dual Swedish citizenship was executed for alleged espionage for Israel.
Looking Ahead
As Nowruz unfolds, Iran faces a complex and uncertain future. The combination of wartime conditions, a severe internet shutdown, and a continuing crackdown on dissent presents significant challenges for the Iranian people. The coming days will be critical in determining the trajectory of the conflict and its impact on the nation. The Iranian government has scheduled a press conference next week to address international concerns and outline its strategy for navigating the ongoing crisis, according to state media reports.
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