Phoebe Philo’s New Collection Prioritizes Playfulness and Wearability
A late-July reveal showcases Phoebe Philo’s vision for early next year, emphasizing a departure from traditional seasonal collections in favor of a continuously evolving wardrobe. The designer is setting the tone for upcoming trends with a lineup that balances eccentricity with everyday comfort.
Philo fundamentally rejects the conventional fashion calendar, opting instead for a design process that builds upon itself. This approach allows for a more organic and considered development of each piece, moving away from the rapid cycle of seasonal trends.
A Focus on “Sugar Tops” and Statement Pieces
The new collection features what Philo terms “sugar tops”—shirts and vests adorned with deep, padded ruffles. These pieces, crafted from washed silk satin, are designed to evoke a sense of treasured familiarity. The pre- and post-sewing washing process contributes to a “worn, lived-in feel,” suggesting garments meant to be cherished and repeatedly worn.
Alongside these delicate tops, the collection includes bolder statements, such as a chenille brindle-patterned onesie complete with a matching cat headpiece. This playful design, reminiscent of a child’s costume, demonstrates Philo’s commitment to garments that are both eye-catching and easy to wear.
Balancing Playfulness with Utility
The collection isn’t solely focused on whimsy. Boxy, oversized t-shirt dresses offer a counterpoint to more extravagant pieces, while uniquely designed pants—including feather-embroidered jersey trousers and shaggy floss-pink viscose options—add a touch of unexpected flair.
Philo’s signature “train top” is poised to become a standout item, offering versatility in styling. It can be draped over one shoulder for a casual look or worn long in the back, resembling an evening dress. The reversible design adds another layer of functionality.
Beyond aesthetics, the collection incorporates elements of utility, with shirts featuring adjustable—and removable—collars and cuffs. This detail speaks to a desire for adaptable garments that can be tailored to individual preferences.
Chic Silhouettes and Accessible Footwear
The collection also delivers on sophisticated style, showcasing an array of leather jackets. From a shrunken bomber jacket layered over a peplum blazer to the architectural “Swathe” jacket with a strong stand-up collar, Philo demonstrates a mastery of silhouette and form.
Footwear plays a crucial role in completing the look. This season’s offerings include sturdy, strappy leather sandals with almost hidden kitten heels. These shoes, described as “shoes that wear you,” are expected to be a major draw when the first-ever Phoebe Philo store opens in London sometime in 2026. They represent a blend of eccentricity and practicality, embodying the collection’s overall ethos.
The new collection from Phoebe Philo isn’t simply about predicting trends; it’s about creating a wardrobe that is both joyful and enduring, offering pieces that are as comfortable as they are captivating.
