Fashion has long mirrored the world of art, with designers drawing inspiration from painters, sculptors, and movements throughout history. But sometimes, fashion *becomes* art, challenging conventions and provoking thought. A monumental new exhibition at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A), “Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art,” argues that the work of Elsa Schiaparelli, the pioneering Italian designer, did just that. Opening Saturday, March 28, the show explores how Schiaparelli’s designs weren’t merely clothes, but bold statements that questioned the status quo and redefined the very purpose of dress.
The exhibition isn’t simply a retrospective; it’s an investigation into the power of fashion to disrupt and inspire. Can clothing truly alter perceptions of beauty, challenge societal norms, or even spark cultural change? Schiaparelli believed it could, and her designs—often surreal, always unexpected—demonstrate a willingness to push boundaries that remains remarkably relevant today.
Nearly a century after Schiaparelli’s most groundbreaking work, her legacy continues to resonate, particularly through the vision of Daniel Roseberry, the current creative director of the House of Schiaparelli. Roseberry has successfully revived the brand, blending Schiaparelli’s spirit of audacious design with a modern sensibility and a keen understanding of celebrity influence. The V&A exhibition thoughtfully juxtaposes pieces from Schiaparelli’s era with Roseberry’s creations, highlighting the enduring power of shocking style, especially in moments of cultural conservatism.
A Collaboration with the Surrealists
Central to Schiaparelli’s innovative approach was her close collaboration with some of the most influential artists of the Surrealist movement. “Elsa Schiaparelli was someone who surrounded herself with artists,” explains Sonnet Stanfill, the V&A’s senior curator of fashion. “It wasn’t just Schiaparelli appropriating Surrealist images and sticking them on her clothes. She was someone who was embedded in the creative process, and there was a true collaborative, creative exchange with these artists and creatives.”
These weren’t mere endorsements or superficial embellishments. Schiaparelli actively engaged with artists like Man Ray, Jean Cocteau, and Salvador Dalí, inviting them to contribute directly to her designs. The result was a series of iconic pieces that blurred the lines between fashion and fine art. Dalí, for example, designed the Lobster Dress in 1937, featuring a striking lobster motif painted onto a silk evening gown. The V&A’s exhibition website details the extensive collaborative process behind many of these pieces.
From Aristocratic Roots to Shocking Style
Born into an intellectual and aristocratic family in Rome in 1890, Elsa Schiaparelli defied expectations. Unlike many of her contemporaries, she received no formal fashion training. This lack of traditional schooling, however, proved to be a strength, allowing her to approach design with a fresh, unconventional perspective. While Coco Chanel championed elegant simplicity and Christian Dior embraced opulent femininity, Schiaparelli deliberately sought to provoke and surprise.
Her designs were often described as “shocking” – a label she embraced. A pair of 1938 monkey fur boots, for instance, were deliberately designed to be unsettling. She questioned conventional notions of taste, playing with scale, proportion, and unexpected materials. What if a shoe resembled a lobster? What if a jacket featured buttons sculpted into miniature horses? Schiaparelli approached clothing with the playful curiosity of a stand-up comedian and the philosophical depth of a thinker, creating pieces that were both visually arresting and intellectually stimulating.
The Legacy Continues: Roseberry and the Modern Schiaparelli
The exhibition doesn’t simply dwell on the past. It also highlights the work of Daniel Roseberry, who has revitalized the House of Schiaparelli since his appointment in 2019. Roseberry has skillfully tapped into Schiaparelli’s spirit of innovation, creating designs that are both audacious and exquisitely crafted. His work, often seen on celebrities like Zendaya and Doja Cat, has reintroduced the brand to a new generation.
Roseberry’s designs, like a couture model clutching a robot baby or a gown adorned with an intensely textured, crimson bodice, are deliberately provocative. They challenge conventional notions of beauty and power, prompting viewers to question their own assumptions. As Stanfill notes, the exhibition demonstrates how “the idea of an unexpected ensemble can provoke and surprise, moving fashion and pop culture forward.”
“Schiaparelli: Fashion Becomes Art” isn’t just a celebration of a remarkable designer; it’s a testament to the enduring power of creativity and the ability of fashion to transcend its functional purpose. The exhibition underscores that clothing can be a form of artistic expression, a vehicle for social commentary, and a catalyst for cultural change.
The exhibition runs at the V&A in London through January 5, 2025. Further information, including ticket details and related events, can be found on the V&A Museum website. The museum is also hosting a series of talks and workshops exploring Schiaparelli’s legacy and the intersection of fashion and art.
What do you think about the enduring influence of Elsa Schiaparelli? Share your thoughts in the comments below.
