Sfera: Auckland’s New Italian Bistro Finds Its Footing Despite Early Hiccups
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Auckland’s dining scene welcomes a new contender, Sfera, the latest venture from the team behind the acclaimed Candela – 2022’s Viva Best Auckland Restaurant – now closed, and in collaboration with a long-standing local family. The restaurant, located in Northcote Point, offers a casual, buzzy atmosphere and largely faultless Italian fare, though questions remain about its long-term positioning in a competitive market.
From Candela’s Legacy to Northcote Point
Sfera’s arrival follows a period of scrutiny for the team, after a recent review of their previous establishment, Kureta, drew sharp criticism. A representative from Kureta’s PR team reportedly offered a commitment to address the feedback within 30 days, a testament to their dedication to improvement. Meanwhile, across the road from Sfera, The Engine Room is experiencing its own surge in popularity, with manager Natalia Schamroth noting a recent price increase on their highly-praised $49 steaks to $52 due to high demand.
Sfera itself occupies a space previously home to Clarence Road Eatery, a restaurant the reviewer found generally positive in 2017, though noting it was “overlit, glassy and in need of some music.” The new owners have certainly addressed the latter concern, though perhaps with a bit too much enthusiasm. “At one point… I said ‘this all looks good, do you have any favourites?’ and after a few silent seconds looked up at the waiter who shouted ‘sorry, are you talking to me?’” the reviewer recounts.
The core question surrounding Sfera is its niche. The menu features familiar Italian bistro staples – pizza, pasta, and classic dishes – already well-represented throughout Auckland. However, the restaurant’s strength lies in its commitment to quality ingredients and authentic flavors. The ownership team undertook a month-long research trip to Italy, and the results are evident. “It’s the best arancini I’ve eaten,” the reviewer declares, praising the dish’s inspiration from the popular cacio e pepe pasta and its uniquely flavorful black pepper-infused mayo.
While the flavors are consistently strong, presentation occasionally falters. The melon and prosciutto dish, while delicious, proved difficult to share due to its stacked construction, resulting in a “wet messy pile.” Similarly, the tomato and peach salad would have benefited from being sliced rather than served in chunks. Despite these minor issues, the reviewer emphasizes that both dishes “tasted great.”
The main courses delivered on their promise. A sliced steak with a vibrant green peppercorn sauce and woodfired cabbage with goat’s cheese and chili oil were both thoroughly enjoyed. The rigatoni alla vodka, a rising star on Auckland’s Italian dining scene, also proved to be a solid choice.
The experience culminated in a shared tiramisu, a testament to the restaurant’s relaxed atmosphere. The final bill, at more than $100 cheaper than a comparable meal at The Engine Room, further solidified Sfera’s value proposition. Despite slightly diminished service, the reviewer concludes that Sfera may have “slotted into a good gap after all.”
Address: 124 Queen St, Northcote Point
Contact: 09 480 9600, sfera.co.nz
From the menu: arancini $17, prosciutto and melon $22, tomato and peach salad $26, scotch fillet $56, woodfired cabbage $24, rigatoni alla vodka $24
Score: 16-18 – Great, plan a visit.
