St Albans: How One City Is Defying the UK Pub Closure Crisis
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As New Year’s Eve approaches, a familiar question looms: how to celebrate without succumbing to the fear of missing out? While the UK hospitality industry faces unprecedented challenges – from the cost-of-living crisis to shifting drinking habits – one city is proving remarkably resilient when it comes to its pubs: St Albans.
More than 400 pubs have closed across England and Wales in 2024, signaling a broader struggle for the traditional British pub. However, a visit to St Albans reveals a thriving pub scene, bolstered by a strong sense of community and a unique historical legacy. A recent exploration of the city, alongside Guardian colleague Sammy Gecsoyler, uncovered the secrets behind its success, from a fascinating past to innovative approaches for the future.
A History Steeped in Hospitality
St Albans’ enduring pub culture isn’t accidental. The city’s location, historically just a day’s ride from London, fueled demand for inns and stabling for travelers. As curator David Thorold of St Albans Museum explained, this proximity created a natural hub for hospitality.
The early 19th century witnessed an explosion in pub numbers thanks to the Beerhouse Act of 1830. “It allowed anybody, for a fee of about two guineas, to set up an establishment that sells beer,” Thorold said. “But you could only sell beer, not spirits or wine.” This legislation transformed St Albans from approximately 40 pubs in 1840 to a staggering 90 by 1880. In 1884, an incredible 92 pubs were packed into a one-kilometer radius – a density that resembled a festival map more than a city center. Thorold jokingly observed that in St Albans, “any old building most likely is, was, or will be a pub at some point.”
The museum’s new exhibition on the history of St Albans’ pubs and inns, already slated for extension due to popular demand, features an inspired highlight: beer pumps that, when pulled, play audio stories connected to the city’s pub history. The exhibition will coincide with a gathering of the Campaign for Real Ale (Camra) in April.
Bucking the National Trend
Despite the national decline, roughly a third of St Albans’ historic pubs remain open, including The Boot, located opposite the city’s iconic Clock Tower – the only surviving medieval town belfry in England. A visit to The Boot offered insight into the city’s unique resilience.
Landlord Sean Hughes attributes the pub’s success to a blend of local and tourist patronage. “This place is quite unique,” Hughes explained, “because we get local residents and we get tourists and visitors – it’s a bit of a meet-in-the-middle for everything.” He emphasized the strong sense of community pride surrounding the city’s pubs.
This sentiment is actively championed by the “Save St Albans pubs” campaign, which promotes the slogan “a pub is for life, not just for Christmas.” Hughes also highlighted the robust mutual support network among local publicans. “We really work hard together to make St Albans special,” he said. “When you see the WhatsApp chats, it’s unbelievable – any issue, everyone knows, and if someone needs a keg or whatever, we’ll drop it round.” This collaborative spirit proved crucial during the challenging Covid-19 pandemic.
Shifting Demographics and the Future of the Pub
The changing demographics of pub-goers are a significant concern nationwide, with younger generations often opting for different forms of entertainment. However, St Albans appears to be defying this trend. Hughes noted that weekends in St Albans are increasingly populated by a younger crowd.
Sammy Gecsoyler, a representative of that demographic, offered further insight. Gecsoyler observed that the pandemic profoundly impacted Gen Z’s relationship with alcohol and nightlife. “When the world locked down, and we were stuck indoors stone-cold sober, something shifted,” he explained. “Other hobbies like gaming and fitness became (arguably unhealthy) obsessions and the appeal of stumbling around town waned.” However, Gecsoyler also noted a recent resurgence in interest, fueled by a renewed desire for social experiences and the rise of trends like “brat summer.” He pointed to the success of pre-mixed cocktails like BuzzBallzs as evidence of this shift.
Pubs are adapting to these changing preferences, with non-alcoholic beers becoming increasingly commonplace.
The Economic Realities
Despite the positive outlook in St Albans, the broader hospitality industry faces significant economic pressures. Hughes identified taxation as the biggest challenge. “We’re one of the most heavily taxed industries in Europe,” he said. “The duty on beer and wine here is miles above what our neighbours pay. And when a pub closes, the Treasury loses out too. A typical pub is paying about £200,000 a year in tax; when it shuts, that disappears overnight.” This financial burden, Gecsoyler added, also impacts younger patrons, making pubs less affordable than other entertainment options.
At the Lower Red Lion, owner David Worcester echoed the sentiment that pubs are vital social hubs. “It’s a community,” Worcester said. “People talk to each other here who wouldn’t meet anywhere else.”
By the time our small group reached The Peahen, the era of heavy lunchtime drinking had clearly passed. While this reporter indulged in a traditional pint, the others opted for soft drinks or water, citing work commitments. Gecsoyler noted that my departure towards the train station was accompanied by only a “slight sway” in my walk.
As I prepare to live blog New Year’s Eve, the temptation to do so from a cozy corner of a lively St Albans pub remains strong. Whatever your plans, remember to celebrate responsibly and embrace the spirit of community that keeps places like St Albans thriving. See you in 2026.
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