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Stephanie Cavalli’s Gray Hair at Chanel Signals a Shift in Runway Representation
A growing sense of relatability defined the latest Chanel couture collection, according to Vogue Runway director Nicole Phelps, but it was the presence of model Stephanie Cavalli-and her naturally gray hair-that sparked a wider conversation about beauty standards and representation in fashion. Cavalli’s unexpected casting, and subsequent opening of the show, is being hailed as a subtle yet powerful moment for inclusivity.
The decision to feature Cavalli wasn’t initially intended as a statement, but rather a reflection of the designer’s vision. “I’m walking on clouds,” Cavalli told Vogue, describing her experience. This marked her second collaboration with Chanel, following her appearance in the December Métiers d’Art show, which was inspired by New York City and staged within a subway setting. “I never thought I would do something like open a Chanel show.it was entirely unexpected, especially at my age.”
Cavalli’s journey to the runway is unconventional. She began modeling for commercial work in her 20s, with a sporadic career interspersed throughout her life. It was only three years ago, with a walk at the Tibi spring-summer 2024 ready-to-wear show, that she transitioned into high fashion, later appearing in shows for brands including Miu Miu, Maria McManus, and Proenza Schouler.
The chance to lead the Chanel show came about after a personal connection with designer Matthieu Blazy. “When Matthieu [Blazy] saw me for my first Couture fitting, he told me he was inspired by me and wanted me to open the show,” Cavalli recounted. “I was happy, obviously, and a little nervous too, because I feel like it’s quite a responsibility to open such a big show. But I did it.”
Cavalli’s choice to embrace her gray hair stemmed from a desire for simplicity and self-acceptance. “I was tired of having to color it all the time, and feeling that sometimes the color would come out nice, but sometimes it wouldn’t,” she explained. Initiated during the pandemic as a means to prioritize hair health, the decision evolved into something more profound. “I didn’t want my self-esteem to be dependent on having dyed hair; still, it was hard to adjust to. But as soon as I realized it was making a difference in both my hair health and my career, I stuck with it.”
The impact of Cavalli’s appearance extends beyond the runway. While she didn’t set out to make a statement about aging, her presence has resonated with audiences and sparked a dialog about embracing natural beauty.
Beyond modeling, Cavalli is also a vintage store owner based in upstate New York. She is preparing for a significant launch at her store, featuring a curated collection of 1920s cotton button-downs sourced during her travels in Paris.
“I didn’t wear my hair like this to show that gray is great,” Cavalli reflects. “But it turns out, somehow, that that’s true anyway.”
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