Gabrielle Hamilton on the Books That Shaped Her Craft-From McPhee’s Rigor to Berger’s Humanity
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A celebrated chef and author,Gabrielle Hamilton,reflects on the literary influences that have guided her work,revealing a deep thankfulness for meticulous craft and the power of observation. From the acclaimed restaurant Prune, which operated in New York City’s East Village from 1999 to 2020, to her poignant memoirs, Hamilton’s journey is interwoven with the lessons gleaned from a diverse range of writers.
Hamilton, the creator of Prune-a thirty-seat establishment lauded by The New Yorker for its creator, a chef who “hails from New Jersey but cooks more like a French countrywoman”-is also the author of “Blood, Bones & Butter,” published in 2011, and the recently released “Next of Kin.” Both delve into her complex family history and formative experiences. She recently shared with readers the books that have profoundly impacted her approach to writing.
The Importance of Rigor: John McPhee’s “A Roomful of Spines”
John McPhee’s “A roomful of Spines” is, for Hamilton, a masterclass in the art of nonfiction. She emphasizes that McPhee’s work articulates a timeless truth about the power of careful, correct writing.
Finding Humor and Insight: Annie Dillard‘s “The Writing Life”
Annie Dillard’s “The Writing Life” holds a special place for Hamilton, who describes Dillard as “so fucking funny.” She admires Dillard’s “profound and self-deprecating humor,” noting that Dillard possesses a rare ability to be both intellectually rigorous and playfully inventive.
Hamilton draws a parallel between Dillard’s fluency and the intellectual agility she observed in graduate school, where some peers could effortlessly navigate complex theory while maintaining a sense of levity.She contrasts this with her own earlier struggles, admitting she once felt like she was “barely hanging on to the back of the bus by the fender while it was barrelling ahead.” Dillard’s work, notably her breakout book “Pilgrim at Tinker Creek” (1974), offers a glimpse into an “amazing mind at work.”
The Power of Observation: Eudora Welty‘s “One Writer’s Beginnings”
Eudora Welty’s “One Writer’s Beginnings” resonated deeply with Hamilton when she first read it at seventeen. The book’s exploration of how Welty discovered her gift for observation mirrored Hamilton’s own early experiences.
Hamilton recalls identifying with Welty’s description of lying on the floor, immersed in reading and attuned to the subtle details of her surroundings-the sounds within the house, the dust motes dancing in the sunlight. This recognition sparked a sense of possibility: “Oh, my god, I’m doing that, too. Maybe I’m a writer, too.” Welty’s work affirmed the importance of attentive observation as a foundational skill for aspiring writers.
Food as a Lens: John Berger’s “Pig Earth”
John Berger’s “Pig Earth,” part of his “Into Their Labours” series, is, according to Hamilton, “the freaking Bible” for her approach to food writing. She emphasizes that Berger’s work transcends mere culinary description, using food as a means to explore broader themes of peasantry, agricultural labor, and class.
Hamilton explains that even when writing about seemingly simple subjects-a tomato salad or a cheese selection-she draws inspiration from Berger’s approach. She acknowledges the often ephemeral nature of food writing,noting that it can “disappear in two weeks,” but believes Berger’s work offers a timeless quality. He consistently grounds food within the context of life itself, depicting characters collecting walnuts, holding berries, or encountering leeks beneath the snow, even in moments of profound sorrow. he makes food an integral part of the human experience.
