Sven Elverfeld cooks at Aqua in Wolfsburg: Restaurant criticism

by time news


Zander, leeks, black pudding and watercress
Image: Juergen Dollase

Sven Elverfeld, one of the best German chefs, cooks at the “Aqua” restaurant in Wolfsburg. It proves that our traditional dishes have exactly the same potential as in France or Italy.

Dhe guest is sitting in the 3-star “Aqua” restaurant in the Ritz-Carlton Hotel in Wolfsburg’s Autostadt. The menu begins with the “attunements” and a small irritation. “Sour meat, white cabbage & remoulade” is what it says, so it sounds, shall we say, down-to-earth.

What comes out is a tiny tart that you eat in one bite for a reason, because that way you get to experience the interplay of the elements exactly as the chef intended. The grandiosely finely balanced taste of sour meat, bread crisp, tartar sauce, marinated white cabbage, roasted onions and bacon immediately proves that our traditional dishes have exactly the same potential as in France or Italy.

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