Arm the people, rock-rich the country: This reputation has accompanied the Vogelsberg into the recent past. The yields of the barren basalt soil were low and allowed little more than animal husbandry. None of the major transport routes, whether road or rail, made their way through the inhospitable, water-rich region, which was framed by the largest shield volcano in Europe, 750 meters high and 2500 square kilometers in size.
However, it took a long time before one spoke of a closed low mountain range. The topography was only defined on a geological basis by the “Vogelsberger Höhen-Club”, founded in 1881, and developed accordingly in terms of hiking and culture. The Hoher Vogelsberg Nature Park, founded a good 65 years ago, was then able to build on this to preserve the grown cultural landscape while expanding tourist facilities. Now many are discovering that the disadvantage of earlier days has long since turned into its opposite. Only an hour’s drive from the Rhine-Main area, those looking for relaxation will find an intact, hardly overdeveloped stretch of land. Characteristic are the constant changes between forest islands and the grass and arable land enclosed by hedges or clearing stones on the steeper western slope, while the north runs more gently undulating and also allows larger grazing zones.
Ulrichstein im Vogelsberg, Hesse’s highest town, is crowned by the 610-meter-high Schlossberg. Where a castle grew as early as the 13th century.
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Image: Thomas Klein
The park-like scenery is easy to overlook from the walls of the Ulrichstein Castle ruins, which are 600 meters above sea level. The complex, which has been partially restored since the early 20th century, was further upgraded 20 years ago thanks to the “Vogelsberggarten”. Founded by the nature park and cared for by volunteers, selected cultivated and wild plants from the low mountain range grow in the facility, and there are even cattle and sheep to demonstrate earlier forms of farming.
There is another reason why the previous difficulties of the highest town in Hesse are an advantage for the location: where there is a constant wind, the largest wind power plant in the state has grown with more than 50 rotorcraft. It was also the first to have a natural pool. Plankton and reeds ensure clean water instead of circulation systems. The unheated pool might be something for hardened natures, but who else offers the experience of cheerful frog croaking while swimming?
The fact that the Vogelsberg – which was named after a survey in Ulrichstein’s district – is an ancient cultural landscape against all odds is proven by the unique “death mace” from Meiches. For at least 2000 years, his graveyard far away has been used, and in so-called clan form. Probably the last one in Germany, he reminds us that long-established families have always occupied the same areas for generations and still do so today. “Foreigners” are also accepted – admittedly only marginally.
Directions
The hike begins at the large car park next to the Ulrichstein town hall. First, it goes past the rotor blade of the first generation of wind turbines without marking, behind it you cross the country road and walk on an asphalted path along an extensive holiday home complex to the crossroads in front of a horse farm.
There the signs blue ring and stylized volcanic cone (green and red) appear. If the two diverge shortly thereafter, follow the latter for a shortened lap. About 500 meters beyond the country road you can choose again at a fork: continue to the main path, the Vulkanring, or turn left directly towards the indicated Dicke Steinen, soon supplemented by the red and white line.
On the first half of the large loop, the blue ring is reserved for guiding you through the constant alternation of forest and meadows. At first, spruces predominate, later cattle pastures characterize the picture, which have a special forest – wind turbines, as far as the perspective can reach. It should only be noted that after almost three kilometers the otherwise good marking for 350 meters on the country road on the left is missing before it continues halfway to the right.