TDespite the corona pandemic, Argentina is easy to travel to. The number of infected people has been declining sharply since January. From 140,000 it went down to currently less than 5000 infected people per day. After the strict lockdown, which lasted almost eight months in 2020, everything is now open. That’s why I decided to stay a little longer in Argentina during my trip around the world. And so it went further south from Patagonia to the Tierra del Fuego Islands, which are often referred to as the end of the world.
Argentina’s Ushuaia was previously considered the southernmost city in the world. But on the other side of the Beagle Channel, a few kilometers to the south, lies Puerto Williams in Chile. There they have now registered more than 5000 residents and thus Puerto Williams has officially risen from village to city. “Nevertheless, Ushuaia remains the southernmost city for us,” the tour guide explains defiantly with a wink.
With around 60,000 inhabitants, Ushuaia is actually much larger and offers a much better infrastructure. At times it is said to have been the fastest growing city in the world. The comparatively good salaries, the tourism industry and the low crime rate attracted many Argentines to this region.
The best views of Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel
Ushuaia has its very own, somewhat rough charm. The city is known for blustery winds and a rather cool climate all year round. Visually, many neglected cars are noticeable outside the city center. I’m guessing there isn’t a junkyard here or the owners just don’t have the money to fix them.
The city itself is hilly. And sidewalks, if they exist, are more like tripping hazards. My accommodation is a sporty 20-minute climb from the center. The gravel roads there are dusty, but you can see Ushuaia Bay from above.
Ushuaia is hilly. This can sometimes be exhausting, but also provides beautiful views
Quelle: Getty Images/Stuart Gray
An even better view can be enjoyed from the Martial glacier. The taxi ride there takes only 15 minutes. Then you do not have to take the arduous, steep climb directly to the glacier, but the side path called Sendero del Filo.
Arriving at the last vantage point offers the best view of Ushuaia, the Beagle Channel and Chile across the water. You can also see a handful of cruise ships, especially between November and the end of March, when they set off on exclusive Antarctic tours every week.
Picnic at the glacier lake in Tierra del Fuego
Anyone who visits Ushuaia wants to be in nature. One of the most beautiful hiking routes is that to Laguna Esmeralda. The path looks like an enchanted fairytale world, sometimes a bit dark and wild. In places one encounters many dead trees.
As the guide explains, it is partly due to the marshy landscape, which is often flooded and thus leads to the death of trees. On the other hand, it is due to the very thin layer of earth above the rocky ground. This means that the trees cannot put down deep roots and are simply swept over in strong winds.
Especially on weekends, many people are drawn to the glacial lake Laguna Esmeralda
Quelle: Martin Lewicki
Upon arrival at Laguna Esmeralda, it turns out to be an emerald green glacial lake. It’s stunningly beautiful, which explains why you’re rarely alone here. Especially on weekends there is a sociable atmosphere, many families with children organize picnics here.
Incidentally, the region is called Tierra del Fuego because the explorers who arrived here by ship were initially unable to discover any inhabitants. At night, however, they saw from their ships that numerous fireplaces were burning, which came from the native people. And so they called the area Tierra del Fuego.
Hiking in the southernmost part of Argentina
Tierra del Fuego National Park is a must for hikers. Mini-buses from the city center go there several times a day. Best to take one back at 9am and the last one back at 7pm. You can also drive into the park with a rental car, but that is of little use when hiking.
A nice start for a hike is the self-proclaimed smallest post office in the world. Here travelers from the end of the world can send a postcard. At the same time, the Senda Costera begins here. A wonderful path along the coast, which is one of the most beautiful that I have covered so far.
Almost. Unfortunately, at some point the route runs parallel to a heavily traveled gravel road. And since it was bone dry that day, not only I but also the flora along the street was completely covered in dust.
Getting a card from the mini post office on the Beagle Channel is something very special
Source: pa/zb/Daniel Gammert
According to the information sign, the second hiking trail, which leads to the Chilean border, takes 3.5 hours. Unfortunately, incorrect information, I needed less than 1.5 hours for the route at a relaxed pace – i.e. not in the German goose-step. At the end, a picturesque stretch of pebbly beach awaits you, where you can enjoy your lunch right on the border between Argentina and Chile.
And the cool water of Lago Roca is a welcome refreshment for feet that have been sore from hiking. Then it goes back to Puerto Arias, where buses pick up the exhausted hikers very punctually.
Penguins at the end of the journey through Patagonia
A visit to Ushuaia would not be complete without a trip to Isla Martillo, Argentina’s penguin island. There is only one operator who is allowed to go there three times a day with a maximum of 20 travelers per tour. So it is best to book the trip before you arrive in Ushuaia, at the latest immediately upon arrival.
As a spontaneous booker, I had to wait five days for a free place and only made it to the island just before my departure – for me the southernmost point of my trip around the world! Three different penguin species live there, with almost 10,000 specimens in the summer season.
Three different penguin species live on Isla Martillo. King penguins and a gentoo penguin can be seen here
Source: pa / Christian Ender
There are strict visitor rules in the nature reserve, such as keeping a distance of five meters from the birds. These are not disturbed by the constantly photographing tourists, enjoy sunbathing or bathing in water and take care of their breeding grounds.
We were particularly lucky, because during our visit three majestic Andean condors were also circling over the island. A rarity, just like the sunny weather, the tour guide explained to us. For me it was an ideal end to my trip through Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. Who knew the end of the world could be so beautiful?
Read more parts of the world tour series “One Way Ticket” here. The column appears every two weeks.
What to consider for the Easter holiday
The first major travel wave of 2022 is imminent in April, when the Easter holidays begin in the first federal states at the beginning of the month. There are still numerous offers for those who decide on the spur of the moment. The corona restrictions have fallen in many countries – but not everywhere.
Source: WORLD / Thomas Laeber