VATICAN CITY – The annual Palm Sunday procession at St. Peter’s Square is a vibrant display of faith, but its location carries a somber historical weight. The ceremony unfolds at the foot of an 85-foot-tall Egyptian obelisk, a monument that stands as a silent witness to the martyrdom of early Christians in Rome. Beyond the religious significance, the story of how that very obelisk was erected in the 16th century reveals a tale of Renaissance engineering, quick thinking, and a sea captain’s crucial intervention.
This year’s observance, on March 24, saw young people carrying olive branches and palm fronds circling the obelisk as Pope Francis blessed the faithful with holy water. The tradition commemorates Jesus’s triumphal entry into Jerusalem, but at this particular site, it also acknowledges the sacrifices of those who came before. The obelisk marks the approximate center of what was once the Circus of Nero, a vast arena where, according to historical accounts, Christians were persecuted and killed, including, tradition holds, Saint Peter himself.
The obelisk’s journey to the heart of the Vatican is a story centuries in the making. Originally erected in Heliopolis, Egypt, by the Roman Emperor Caligula in 37 AD, it was brought to Rome and initially placed in the Circus of Nero. The Vatican Museums details the obelisk’s history, noting its purpose as a central marker within the arena.
For centuries, the obelisk remained in the Circus, later known as the Stadium of Domitian, witnessing the persecution of Christians. In 1586, Pope Sixtus V ordered its relocation to its current prominent position in St. Peter’s Square, a deliberate act to honor the martyrs who had perished nearby. The undertaking was a monumental feat of engineering for its time. Weighing an estimated 327 tons, the obelisk required the coordinated effort of 900 men, 140 horses, and 44 winches to lift and secure it.
The operation was fraught with danger. Recognizing the immense risk, Pope Sixtus V issued a decree forbidding any noise during the lifting process, under penalty of death. The silence was intended to prevent any sudden movements or distractions that could compromise the delicate operation. Although, as the obelisk was being raised, a critical issue arose.
According to historical accounts, Captain Benedetto Bresca, a seasoned sailor from Liguria, Italy, observed that the hemp ropes supporting the obelisk were straining and beginning to fray. Defying the papal decree, Bresca reportedly shouted “Aiga ae corde!” – Ligurian dialect for “water on the ropes!” – recognizing that water would cause the ropes to swell and regain their strength. The workers quickly followed his instruction, and the obelisk was successfully secured.
Bresca was immediately arrested for disobeying the Pope’s orders, but Pope Sixtus V, recognizing the captain’s quick thinking and the averted disaster, swiftly pardoned him. As a reward, Bresca requested a unique privilege: that he and his descendants be appointed the official suppliers of palm fronds for the Vatican. The Pope granted his wish, and Bresca’s family was also permitted to fly the papal naval flag while transporting the palm leaves from Sanremo, a coastal city in Liguria, to Rome.
This tradition continued for generations, with the Camaldolese nuns in Rome weaving the palm fronds into intricate designs. However, the direct supply from Sanremo by the Bresca family ceased in the 1970s. In 2003, a cooperative in Sanremo, aided by palm tree research, revived the practice, supplying “palmurelli” – elaborately braided palm leaves – for the Palm Sunday procession. Sanremo Palme continues to be a key supplier today.
Today, the Palm Sunday procession at St. Peter’s Square remains a powerful symbol of faith, remembrance, and the enduring legacy of those who have shaped the Vatican’s history. The obelisk, once a marker of persecution, now stands as a testament to resilience and the unexpected ways in which courage and ingenuity can alter the course of events. The Vatican will continue to observe Holy Week, culminating in Easter Sunday on March 31st, with further details on papal events available through the Vatican’s official website.
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