Paris Fashion Week opened with a powerful statement: the return of Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic “Le Smoking” suit. Sixty years after its revolutionary debut, the tuxedo for women, reimagined by current creative director Anthony Vaccarello, took center stage, signaling not just a nod to the past but a recalibration for the future of the storied fashion house. The collection, presented Monday night, wasn’t simply a revival; it was a reinterpretation, leaning into a distinctly 1980s Wall Street aesthetic, complete with maximalist jewelry and a makeup palette echoing Robert Palmer’s “Addicted to Love” video.
The original “Le Smoking,” first introduced in 1966, was a radical departure from the prevailing feminine styles of the era. Designed by Yves Saint Laurent, it wasn’t intended as a costume, but as a genuine garment for women, adapted from the traditional men’s tuxedo by slimming the trousers and lapels. While initial sales were modest – only one suit sold from the 1966 collection, according to reports – it quickly became a symbol of female empowerment and a dismantling of gender norms in fashion. The suit would turn into a mainstay of the YSL collections until Saint Laurent’s retirement in 2002.
Vaccarello’s 2026 iteration of “Le Smoking” builds on this legacy, but with a distinctly modern edge. Fourteen models presented the suit, each with a hand casually tucked into a pocket, embodying a sense of effortless power. The collection also featured barely-there pinstripes, a nod to the current menswear trends popularized by figures like Harry Styles, who recently sported a black-and-white pinstripe Chanel suit at the Brit Awards. The show’s styling – enormous jackets in knitted shearling and sky-high heels – further emphasized this theme of assertive dressing.
A Reflection of Shifting Times
The timing of this revival isn’t accidental. The presentation unfolded against a backdrop of global uncertainty, and the show’s opulent staging – a modernist glass “apartment” before the illuminated Eiffel Tower, a replica of a bust Saint Laurent kept in his home, and a front row populated by Kate Moss and Michelle Pfeiffer – felt both celebratory and slightly dissonant. As Paris Fashion Week continues, the industry is navigating a complex landscape where displays of extravagant wealth are increasingly scrutinized.
This tension is reflected in the broader luxury market. According to Kering, the parent company of Yves Saint Laurent, annual revenue in 2024 was approximately €2.6 billion (£2.3 billion), representing an 8% decrease year-over-year. Despite this slowdown, Simon Longland, director of fashion buying at Harrods, notes that the brand continues to demonstrate resilience. “While the broader market has been more volatile, the brand has shown resilience and improvement,” he told The Guardian. “People are still buying it.”
The Enduring Legacy of “Le Smoking”
The story of “Le Smoking” is more than just a fashion narrative; it’s a cultural one. Originally conceived as an adaptation of the smoking jacket worn by men in private smoking rooms, Saint Laurent’s vision transformed it into a symbol of liberation and androgyny. The suit challenged conventional notions of femininity and offered women a new avenue for expressing power and confidence through clothing. Its influence can still be seen today in the prevalence of power suits and tailored separates in women’s wardrobes.
The suit’s impact extends beyond the runway. Fashion photography, particularly the operate of Helmut Newton, embraced the androgynous aesthetic popularized by “Le Smoking,” featuring models in slicked-back hair and masculine three-piece suits. The suit was also famously modeled by singer Françoise Hardy, further cementing its status as a style icon.
Pascal Morand, the executive president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, confirmed that Paris Fashion Week will continue as scheduled, despite current global events, stating that they remain “very attentive to the situation.” This commitment underscores the importance of the event as a major financial and cultural force for the French capital.
fashion often reflects the cultural zeitgeist, but it also provides an escape, a realm of aspiration and fantasy. The enduring appeal of “Le Smoking,” in its various iterations, lies in its ability to tap into both of these desires – to acknowledge the realities of the world while simultaneously offering a vision of the person we aspire to be. As Vaccarello continues his decade-long tenure at Yves Saint Laurent, the brand’s next collections will undoubtedly continue to explore this complex interplay between power, identity, and style.
The coming weeks of Paris Fashion Week will reveal further trends and directions for the season. Stay tuned for ongoing coverage as designers present their visions for the future of fashion.
