Renowned Alpinist Simone Moro Recovering After Heart Attack Near Mount Everest
Italian mountaineering icon Simone Moro is recovering in Kathmandu after experiencing a heart attack while acclimatizing for a planned winter ascent of Manaslu. The news, initially reported on the Facebook page of writer adn mountaineer László Pintér, has sent ripples through the climbing community, though Moro himself assures supporters his condition is improving.
Moro, 58, initially believed to be a coronary bypass, but later clarified that a blocked artery was “cleaned” rather than bypassed or fitted with a stent.
“I’ve read here and there that I had surgery, a bypass, or a stent…they didn’t do anything like that, they just cleaned out a blocked artery,” Moro explained in a video message directly to those concerned about his health. He acknowledged experiencing the “hardest night of his life” as he waited for rescue at an altitude of approximately 5,000 meters.
The immediate rescue was elaborate by the high altitude and adverse weather conditions,delaying helicopter evacuation until the following day. Moro recounted feeling strong chest pain on Mera Peak, realizing “there’s something in my heart” and suspecting a heart attack. With no immediate rescue available,he was forced to spend the night on the mountain with diminished oxygen levels.
Despite the ordeal, Moro remains characteristically optimistic. According to reports from La Repubblica, he is now stable and plans to return to Italy in the coming days for further examinations and rest. “After I’ve regenerated,I’ll continue what I love the most,” he stated,signaling his intention to resume alpinism.
A Legacy of Firsts and Rescue
Moro’s name is synonymous with groundbreaking achievements in high-altitude mountaineering. He is celebrated as the first climber to summit four of the world’s fourteen eight-thousand-meter peaks in winter: Shishapangma (2005), Makalu (2009), Gasherbrum II (2011), and Nanga Parbat (2016). He has also reached the summit of Everest four times, in 2000, 2002, 2006, and 2010.
However, Moro’s contributions extend beyond personal ascents. he is equally renowned for his daring rescue missions in the Himalayas. In May 2001,while preparing to climb Everest and Lhotse,Moro abandoned his own summit bid to rescue a young British climber,Tom Moores,who had fallen into a 200-meter crevasse. Despite othre teams deeming the rescue impossible, Moro persevered, saving Moores from certain death.
For his bravery, Moro received UNESCO’s Fair Play award and the Citizen’s Gold Medal from the Italian state. Moores himself expressed profound gratitude, stating over two decades ago, “Simone didn’t make it to the top because she put a lot of energy into saving me. I felt very guilty, and still do, but Simone, who is a very humble person, shrugged her shoulders and said: ‘No problem. In the future, I will be able to climb and you will be able to climb, and that is more critically important than any summit.'”
Driven by a desire to improve safety in the mountains, Moro transitioned to helicopter piloting at the age of 41. He recognized the limitations of traditional rescue efforts and sought to provide more rapid assistance to climbers in need. In 2013, he purchased a helicopter to conduct search and rescue operations in the Himalayas, serving both the Nepali population and fellow athletes.
Notably, Moro’s skills were recently utilized in May 2023 during the search for Szilárd Suhajda, the first Hungarian mountaineer to attempt a clean ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen. Moro piloted the rescue helicopter that assisted in locating Suhajda and the Nepali mountain guides.
Despite this recent health scare, Simone Moro’s unwavering spirit and dedication to both alpinism and humanitarian efforts remain undiminished. He embodies the true spirit of mountain climbing, prioritizing compassion and the well-being of others alongside the pursuit of challenging summits.
