London’s incessant drizzle stopped just in time for Freddy Coomes and Matt Empringham’s private preview on Friday night. It was an auspicious sign, especially considering that most of their collection was made from the diaphanous crepe used to create paper flowers. The showing, a preview of their Fall 2026 ready-to-wear line, underscored a growing excitement around the duo’s innovative approach to design, and craftsmanship.
Their latest effort under their brand A Letter, formerly Aletta, builds on the duo’s Postmodernist obsession with material deconstruction. The shift in name, from Aletta to A Letter, is a subtle but deliberate move, reflecting a continued evolution of their artistic vision. This collection isn’t simply about clothes; it’s about exploring the boundaries of texture, form, and the very idea of what garments can be. The Vogue review highlights their ability to inject a fresh face into the established school of English eccentricity.
“It’s a continuation of what we’ve been doing before with paper, but this is a lot more fragile,” Coomes explained, hinting at the delicate nature of the materials used. This fragility isn’t a weakness, but rather a central theme, challenging conventional notions of durability and permanence in fashion. The designers, both graduates of Central Saint Martins (BA class of ’24), are quickly gaining recognition for their unique perspective.
A Playful Exploration of Texture and Form
Coomes and Empringham—who both honed their skills under Jonathan Anderson at JW Anderson and Loewe, respectively—are building a fresh, promising universe that speaks to the future of London’s fashion scene. Their experience working with Anderson, known for his own innovative designs, is clearly influencing their approach. The collection featured gossamer sheets transformed into a mint top and cream dress, both cocooned around black brassieres too fashioned from the same delicate material. A particularly striking piece was a polka dot skirt set, painstakingly created by layering and hole-punching individual sheets.
The designers didn’t rely solely on the ephemeral. Heavier pieces provided a counterpoint, including knit sweaters with rolled hems and A-line satin dresses, some of which are already stocked at the influential Dover Street Market. This juxtaposition of textures and weights creates a dynamic tension within the collection, preventing it from feeling overly precious or fragile.
Craftsmanship and the “Domestic” Aesthetic
A Letter’s commitment to craft is central to their identity. As Empringham noted, they’re interested in techniques that are “fully thought about,” even if they don’t possess the expertise of established houses like Bottega Veneta. They’ve developed a unique process using a home-craft material called Kraft-tex, bonding cotton to paper and, more recently, suede to paper, resulting in garments with distinctive planes, angles, and creases. This focus on “domestic crafts” – techniques often associated with hobbyists and makers – sets them apart from more traditional luxury brands.
The Sarabande Foundation, which supports emerging designers, highlights A Letter’s embrace of the “amateur,” believing that a lack of rigid training can lead to unexpected and innovative results. This philosophy is evident in the collection’s willingness to experiment with unconventional materials and techniques.
A Letter’s Identity: From ‘A’ to ‘H’
The collection included a playful nod to the brand’s recent name change: a plain black cotton T-shirt printed with a bold “A.” This simple garment sparked a lighthearted conversation about identity and representation. When asked which letter of the alphabet they would be, Coomes responded with “F, since that’s what my name starts with.” Empringham offered a more enigmatic answer, choosing “H” simply because “I like the way it sounds.” This playful exchange reveals a self-aware and slightly irreverent sensibility that permeates their work.
The collection’s on display until Sunday, offering a rare opportunity to experience the craftsmanship firsthand. It’s a testament to the power of thoughtful design and a reminder that fashion can be both beautiful and intellectually stimulating. The intricate details and unconventional materials demand close inspection, rewarding viewers who take the time to appreciate the artistry involved.
Looking ahead, A Letter’s continued exploration of material deconstruction and their commitment to craft promise to be a significant contribution to the evolving landscape of London fashion. The brand’s next steps will be closely watched by industry insiders and fashion enthusiasts alike, as they continue to push the boundaries of what’s possible in contemporary design. Stay tuned for updates on their website and social media channels.
What did you reckon of A Letter’s latest collection? Share your thoughts in the comments below.
Worth a look
