Could a single molecule be the key to turning back the clock on aging skin? New research suggests N-carbamylglutamate (NCG) shows remarkable promise, tackling wrinkles, dark spots, inflammation, and even UV damage in lab tests.
NCG: A Multifaceted Approach to Skin Health
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Scientists are exploring NCG as a potential ingredient for a new generation of skincare products targeting “inflammageing”-the chronic, low-grade inflammation that accelerates skin aging.
- NCG demonstrated potent antioxidant activity, reducing damaging molecules by over 90% in lab settings.
- The compound boosted collagen production in skin cells by up to 30%, perhaps diminishing wrinkles.
- NCG exhibited brightening effects comparable to arbutin,a common skin-lightening ingredient.
- It reduced key inflammatory markers, addressing a core driver of skin aging.
Q: What is NCG and why is it generating buzz in skincare?
A: N-carbamylglutamate is a molecule that, in laboratory studies, has shown a remarkable ability to combat multiple signs of skin aging-from wrinkles and dark spots to inflammation-making it a promising candidate for future cosmetic and dermatological products.
Researchers from Chonnam National University, Dongshin University, and BIO-FD&C conducted tests on four types of skin cells: human keratinocytes (the skin’s outer layer), human dermal fibroblasts (collagen producers), mouse melanoma cells (pigmentation), and mouse macrophages (immune cells involved in inflammation). These models are standard for initial screening before human trials.
Protection Against Damage and Collagen loss
When exposed to UVB radiation, skin cells generate unstable oxygen molecules, known as reactive oxygen species (ROS), which damage DNA, proteins, and fats, accelerating visible aging. NCG proved to be a powerful antioxidant, reducing ROS levels by over 90% at higher doses. Interestingly, NCG’s ability to neutralize ROS was comparable to that of N-acetylcysteine (NAC), but at a much lower concentration, suggesting a potent effect.
Beyond antioxidant properties,NCG showed potential in fighting wrinkles. In fibroblasts exposed to UVB, it helped restore the production of type I procollagen-the building block of firm skin-by as much as 30%. It also significantly reduced the activity of MMP-1 and MMP-3, enzymes that break down collagen and elastin, contributing to sagging and wrinkles, by over 53%. Further analysis confirmed NCG actually reduced the *amount* of these damaging proteins.
Brightening Effects Comparable to Arbutin
To assess NCG’s brightening potential, the research team used melanoma cells stimulated to produce pigment. They compared NCG to arbutin, a popular brightening ingredient. NCG reduced melanin production and tyrosinase activity (a key enzyme in skin pigmentation) by approximately 18.3%.At similar doses, NCG’s brightening effect mirrored that of arbutin.
digging deeper, researchers found NCG dialed down the “master switch” protein for pigment production (MITF) and two supporting enzymes (TRP-1 and TRP-2) by over 50%. By targeting multiple points in the pigment creation process, NCG appears to offer a complete approach to reducing dark spots and promoting even skin tone.
Anti-Inflammatory Action Targets Root of aging
Inflammageing-the idea that chronic, low-level inflammation silently damages tissues-is increasingly recognized as a major driver of aging and
