Auckland’s dining scene is about to get a little more intentional. Michelin-starred chef Matt Lambert, along with his wife Barbara, are opening the doors to Return this Wednesday on Ponsonby Road. The 62-seater isn’t aiming for the formality of “fine dining,” Lambert insists, but rather a deliberate and considered experience. It’s a return, in many ways, to his roots, and a continuation of a culinary journey that began in Auckland and took him to the heights of Modern York’s restaurant world.
Lambert’s philosophy is refreshingly direct: no shared plates unless you specifically aim for them. “I hate going out to dinner and everyone’s like ‘let’s just share’ and they pick things I don’t want,” he explained in an interview. “I don’t want anyone to experience that ever.” This seemingly slight detail speaks to a larger ethos at Return – a focus on individual enjoyment and a rejection of culinary trends that prioritize presentation over personal preference. The menu, offering both à la carte options and two tasting menus priced at $165 and $225 respectively, will feature modern New Zealand cuisine with a clear emphasis on quality ingredients and thoughtful preparation.
A Homecoming After Michelin Success
The opening of Return marks a significant moment for Lambert, a Henderson-raised chef who honed his skills at The Grove under Michael Meredith before embarking on a successful career overseas. In 2013, he and Barbara launched The Musket Room in New York City, quickly earning critical acclaim and, remarkably, a Michelin star within just four months – a feat rarely achieved. The New York Times lauded the restaurant’s innovative approach to New Zealand flavors and its intimate atmosphere. They maintained the star for seven years before deciding to return to Auckland in 2020, a move prompted by a desire to be closer to family and reconnect with their homeland.
The location itself holds a special significance. Return occupies the space formerly home to Gigi, previously Ponsonby Rd Bistro, a landmark restaurant that played a pivotal role in shaping Auckland’s dining culture. “Long before Return, it was home to Ponsonby Rd Bistro, a restaurant that played a meaningful role in shaping how this city ate and gathered,” Lambert said. “We are entering a continuum and will treat it accordingly.” This isn’t simply about taking over a space; it’s about acknowledging and building upon a legacy.
Beyond the Plate: Design and Philosophy
The restaurant’s design reflects this sense of continuity and respect for the past. A striking 16.2-meter-long counter is crafted from reclaimed swamp kauri, a native New Zealand wood known for its durability and unique character. The space is warmed by a chocolate-brown travertine fireplace, creating an inviting and sophisticated ambiance. Even the restaurant’s logo, featuring the tītī (muttonbird), a migratory seabird that travels between the Northern and Southern Hemispheres, speaks to the themes of journey and return.
Lambert describes Return as “a more grown-up version” of The Musket Room, suggesting a refinement of their signature style. The menu will showcase the best of New Zealand produce, with dishes like pāua, pavlova, and a contemporary take on fish and chips. The focus, however, remains on allowing diners to choose exactly what they want to eat, a direct response to Lambert’s own frustrations with forced sharing. “This restaurant is for everyone,” he says. “You can come in a Motorhead T-shirt or a suit… if you have fun, then we did a good job.”
A Collaborative Beginning
The story of Return is as well a story of partnership. Lambert and Barbara met 20 years ago while working at The Grove. He was a young chef under the mentorship of Michael Meredith; she was an American traveler working front of house, connected to restaurant owner Michael Dearth through family ties. Their shared passion for hospitality and a commitment to creating memorable experiences formed the foundation of their successful collaboration, first at The Musket Room and now at Return.
Lambert’s recent experience includes work with Rodd & Gunn’s The Lodge group, further broadening his experience within the hospitality sector. But it’s the opportunity to open a restaurant on his home turf that feels particularly special. He sees Return not just as a business venture, but as a contribution to the vibrant culinary landscape of Auckland.
Return opens its doors on Wednesday, promising a dining experience that is both sophisticated and welcoming. The restaurant’s success will undoubtedly be measured by the quality of its food and service, but also by its ability to create a space where diners experience comfortable, respected, and free to enjoy a meal on their own terms. Reservations are now being accepted, and the Auckland dining scene eagerly awaits the next chapter in Matt Lambert’s culinary journey.
What’s next for Lambert and the Return team? The immediate focus is on establishing the restaurant as a cornerstone of Ponsonby Road’s dining scene. Future plans, while not yet disclosed, likely involve seasonal menu changes and a continued commitment to showcasing the best of New Zealand’s ingredients.
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