2023-08-17 11:43:44
Cheese to bite into
The way to the Land of Cockaigne is very easy in Lucerne: just follow your nose! It will lead you sooner rather than later to the Chäs Barmettler. In front of the long-established cheese shop, cheesecakes are baked, which exude a delicately aromatic scent into Hertensteinstrasse.
Lucerne residents have appreciated the cheese cakes for more than 40 years. “My parents made them back in 1976, in exactly the same oven that I still use today,” says Thomas Barmettler, who is the second generation to run the business.
Of course, the trained cheesemaker is flattered by the fact that an article in the “New York Times” even declared his Chäschüechli a culinary cult, but instead of praise from America, he prefers to talk about varieties, consistency, maturity and correct storage.
Passionate cheese maker: Thomas Barmettler with his cheesecake
Those: BILDBAENDIGER.DE
I used to think cheese was just curdled milk that you just had to let sit long enough. Just a city kid, but one who luckily was able to learn how to milk and make cheese on a goat farm. Since then, I have had great respect for farmers and also look at the plastic-packaged industrial products on the cheese shelves in our supermarkets differently. Today I would like to know for myself whether the creamy cream cheese and the savory soft cheese balls are made from raw milk or whether vegan rennet was used to thicken the milk.
Thomas Barmettler, who learned cheesemaking from scratch and worked as a cheesemaker for ten years before taking over his parents’ business in the early 1990s, can give a keynote speech on any of my questions. However, he explains with so much contagious passion that you enthusiastically decide to try his entire range to find out what the expert is actually talking shop about.
Long-established: the cheese shop “Chäs Barmettler” in Lucerne
Those: BILDBAENDIGER.DE
A long-term project, because around 100 types of cheese can be tasted and bought at Chäs Barmettler, from A for Appenzeller to Z for Ziegenbrie – a heavenly cross-section of delicious cheese delicacies. Like a sommelier about wine, Thomas Barmettler can tell a story about each variety and knows which traditional types of cheese are still produced in small village cheese dairies today.
He himself is particularly enthusiastic about l’Etivaz, a hard cheese that is made in the Vaudois Alps over an open fire according to the old tradition and according to a traditional recipe from raw milk. Spicy, fruity and slightly nutty in taste, the ivory-colored l’Etivaz shows the delicious power of cow’s milk, provided it is allowed to mature long enough. One thing is clear after the first practice round: if you say Lucerne, you also have to say Bündner Bergkäse, Emmental, Gruyere, Sbrinz, Tilsiter and Vacherin Mont-d’Or. Smell and bite into it! (chäs-barmettler.ch)
The B-side of Lucerne
This is probably the ugliest street in fine Lucerne. Chewing gum sticks to the soles, the smell of petrol permeates the air, and an acoustically cultivated environment certainly sounds different. More than 20,000 cars thunder through Baselstrasse every day, which is popularly known as “Rue de Blamage”. She is certainly not a figurehead, more worthy of a desolation trophy. There is always too little glitter on the ground of facts, but as is so often the case in such cracks in urban life, the world is at home.
In the Middle Ages, lepers, beggars and criminals were banned from the city center and deported to the area around Baselstrasse. Today, people from 70 nations live here: Turkish barbers, Tamil greengrocers, Mexican cooks, African hair stylists, Syrian refugees and Swiss street musicians – and right among them: Heinz.
Source: Infographic WORLD
Unmissable, but still unrecognized. Three and a half meters tall and weighing three tons, Heinz holds out at the noisiest and most hectic spot where the long arterial road meets the roundabout known as Kreuzstutz. In the middle of the traffic island, the larger-than-life concrete statue of the former street sweeper Heinz Gilli watches over the stream of passing cars. There is hardly a Lucerne resident who has not yet driven past him.
The larger-than-life concrete statue of former street sweeper Heinz Gilli stands on a traffic island
Those: BILDBAENDIGER.DE
Until his retirement in 2008, Heinz kept the neighborhood clean, swung his shovel and broom early in the morning and cleared the sidewalks of snow on winter nights, day after day.
In 2016 he returned to his old territory as a mighty concrete figure. It is a work by the artist Christoph Fischer, who saw in Heinz not only the industrious city original, but also a representative for all workers and ordinary people in the Kreuzstutz district.
More tips for holidays in Switzerland:
Usually, monuments are erected by the people in honor of the rulers and not by the rulers in honor of the people. When a monument was finally erected to the little man in one of the most luxurious cities in Switzerland, which is just as famous for its idyllic mountain and lake panorama as it is for its countless souvenir and watch shops, it is not just a homage to the meanwhile deceased Heinz Gilli, but a heartwarming symbol of respect and humanity that makes Lucerne particularly endearing.
(Kreuzstutz, Baselstrasse 84. The Kreuzstutz bus stop is right next to the roundabout with Heinz standing in the middle. Bus lines 2, 5 and 12 also drive around it.)
The lyrics are from the newly published book “TravelMoments – Lucerne with Lake Lucerne” Taken from Nicole Quint, 360° media, 256 pages, 16.95 euros.
Source: 360°media
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