Milan – The Prada collection for men for summer 2022 shows that stringency does not have to be boring and continuity does not have to mean standing still. Of course, only if the starting level is high – and that is a given here by default. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons once again edited their concept with great precision by developing the new in their designs perfectly from the familiar.
It starts with the head on which the Prada bucket hat sits. This was provided with a sporty chin strap at the front and a spoiler at the back, on which the well-known small triangular zipper pocket sits. You want that right away!
Then the Prada one-piece, which was already shown as a knitted bodysuit in winter. Now it comes in the light summer version as an elongated men’s shirt with rolled-up shorts and is even more beautiful than its predecessor. And more wearable because it has a more casual cut and flatters the body in an advantageous manner. The classic long sleeves are a plus at a time when the boxy short-sleeved shirt is making its comeback. Bravo!
Prada
Freshly combined, because everything fits a Prada one-piece suit.
The idea of tailoring a typical women’s piece for men is ingenious simply because they are anatomically better suited for it. After all, what is it that keeps women from wearing super comfortable and figure-stretching one-pieces? Correct: the pull-out aria that threatens when nature calls. Men, on the other hand, unbutton the front and do what they have to do. That is unfair, but it cannot be changed.
With the blazer, the designers are further refining the whole thing in the direction of Prada elegance – the sewn-on logo sits between the shoulder blades, abstracted into an empty triangle. Perhaps the script will soon no longer be necessary to make you think of Prada when you see a triangle? Maybe that’s the idea that follows classic propaganda – the logo in its reduced form is enough to conjure up an entire brand world.
When it finally arrives at the bottom, the look is completed with black knee socks and shoes made of fine calfskin. Also very good, because now the onesie rocks all the more.
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The Prada outfit for the step into freedom looks like this: fishing hat, swimming trunks, striped tank top, stockings and leather shoes.
The collection was presented online, again in collaboration with AMO by Rem Koolhaas. The red tunnel that was built for the recordings in the Fondazione Prada leads in the film to a beach in Sardinia, where it was set up again. The models walk through the tube and then step into the new freedom by the sea. These pictures are accompanied by the beats of Plasticman aka Richie Hawtin.
The dark aura of the sound covers the recordings of the glistening bright beach – and that makes this view of the new freedom a utopia that is not entirely carefree: “In the spirit of the utopian, the ideal, hope and optimism” says Miuccia Prada. Because what we lost through Corona only comes back cautiously. So that we don’t have to turn back halfway.
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