2023-12-08 09:35:32
How dangerous is a motorhome trip in Iran?
Iran is a dream for a motorhome trip. We felt completely safe for two months. The crime rate is far lower than in the USA, for example, and attacks on tourists are extremely rare. Of course, there is always a residual risk. Critical situations can occur anywhere in the world.
The Foreign Office calls on German citizens to leave Iran and warns of possible arbitrary arrests. Of course, these warnings should be taken into account. However, anyone who compares the reports from foreign ministries in other countries with the warnings from Germany will find that they are not uniform. In order to get a more accurate picture of the world situation, you should not only get information from Germany, but rather obtain global information. The Overland Middle East Facebook group, with almost 3000 members, can be very useful for RV travelers.
Die Warning from the Foreign OfficeHowever, never taking photos of sensitive infrastructure and military installations in Iran should be taken seriously. The Iranian security services are authorized to randomly check smartphones to see whether they contain images of power plants or border facilities. In the best case scenario, they demand that the recordings in question be deleted; in the worst case scenario, you can be arrested. So be careful with the camera!
How do you organize a trip to Iran in a motorhome?
You need a visa and a Carnet de Passages for the vehicle. You can take out Iranian vehicle insurance online in advance. Otherwise, all border formalities are no more complicated than when entering other non-EU countries.
The blockades imposed on Iran by various governments are more difficult to circumvent. The West claims that Iran has violated the nuclear agreement, but the Iranian government rejects this. The sanctions are felt not only by locals, but also by travelers. No ATM in the country accepts Master or Visa cards. Iran is disconnected from the global banking network. Anyone traveling through Iran individually must bring all the money they need in cash and hope that it is enough. Motorhome vacationers can get by on 100 euros per week per person.
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It should also be noted that bringing alcohol and drones is prohibited. Social networks such as Facebook, X (Twitter), Instagram, Snapchat and WhatsApp are blocked. However, these blockages can easily be bypassed with a VPN. When you buy a SIM card in Iran, a VPN is always offered for free.
How is traffic in Iran?
It’s like bumper cars at an amusement park, only without the fun. Hardly anyone pays attention to stop signs and road markings. Motorcycles snake their way through the crowds in the bazaars. Overloaded vehicles drive in the opposite direction on the highways without any scruples. It all takes a lot of getting used to.
On the positive side, the roads are in good condition, there are signs in Persian and English, and there are no tolls on highways for tourists. And – mind you – a liter of diesel only costs 3,000 rials or around 0.01 euros. Since 1979, fuel, gas and electricity have been subsidized in Iran, resulting in absurdly low energy prices.
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However, there is an obstacle for foreigners. You can only buy diesel if you have a plastic card that allows you to do so. No traveler we know has ever gotten their hands on this map. Luckily, there is often a card belonging to the gas station that you can use to fill up, but for twice the price of two cents per liter. Every now and then, gas station attendants even refuse to accept money from tourists. “You are a guest in my country and 20 liters of diesel costs less than a cup of tea,” we often heard.
Where can you camp?
There are no official places like in Europe. However, camping is not a problem. In larger towns there are parks where you can pitch a tent or spend the night in a vehicle for free. These green spaces are popular destinations for young and old. There is drinking water, toilets, shady trees and barbecue areas everywhere.
The author enjoys a cup of coffee with his partner Laura in Isfahan
What: Christopher Many
Outside the towns, camping opportunities are unlimited. The Iranian population density is only a quarter of that of Germany and, unlike many places in the West, free standing is permitted. Occasionally a police car may appear if one is visible from the thoroughfare. But the officials only want to take selfies with tourists, brush up on their English skills and invite foreigners to tea. Our papers were not checked once.
Do you see a lot of foreign tourists in Iran?
In 1998, when I last visited Iran, most tourists were European. Today they mainly come from China and Russia. In contrast to Germany, where the Foreign Office advises people to leave the country immediately due to the tense political situation, the foreign offices of China and Russia classify the region as safe. The tourism industry has adapted to this: people learn Mandarin and open Asian restaurants.
You still meet overlanders from Europe who travel on to Oman, India or Armenia by motorhome or motorbike from time to time. Several thousand go on long journeys every year.
How strictly is clothing checked?
Since the 1979 revolution, all women, including foreigners, have been required to wear loose dresses and headscarves. It doesn’t have to be a black chador or an abaya. Anything that is subtle is accepted. “Subtle” is of course a term that can be interpreted broadly. In larger cities, many women wear fashionable sun hats, high heels and casual trousers. Teenagers walk around in baseball caps and jeans.
As far as we can tell, a sizable minority is boycotting Islamic dress codes. In their opinion, the requirement to dress modestly has long been fulfilled if they don’t go bare midriff. Many walk around without a hijab and are left alone by the moral police.
In Shiraz, Laura lounges on the carpets at the Nasir-ol-Molk Mosque, also known as the Pink Mosque
What: Christopher Many
The problem is that the police would be justified in arresting these women if they interpreted “subtle” in their own way. You don’t know where you stand. There remains uncertainty in view of regulations that can be interpreted in different ways. Cases like that of Masha Amini, who was arrested by the moral police and died as a result of violence, are rare but not impossible.
Western tourists have less to fear. As a guest, however, it is better to adhere to the country’s regulations, regardless of how the locals behave. An ankle-length skirt, a blouse with long sleeves and a simple hat are sufficient.
What should you avoid as a traveler?
Don’t come here in summer! Between May and the end of September, the temperature in large parts of Iran can rise to over 40 degrees Celsius. The size of the country should not be underestimated either. Iran is four and a half times the size of Germany. Even if you stay for several months, it is impossible to visit all the sights.
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Iranians invite you home almost every day. But not all such invitations are meant seriously. Some belong to Ta’aruf, the quintessence of Persian etiquette, and are just polite phrases. Ta’aruf is everywhere, in the market, in restaurants and in shops.
They often insist that a guest does not have to pay anything, but in most cases this should not be taken literally. Replying, “Thank you very much and goodbye,” could cause salespeople to freeze in horror at such a lack of manners. It is expected that the offer will be politely rejected at least three times. Only then can you assume that it was sincere.
Do you often have to pay bribes as a traveler?
Iran ranks 150th out of 180 countries in Transparency International’s global corruption index. However, the corruption perception index primarily refers to the political and economic level. The index has nothing to do with bribes paid by tourists. We have not seen a single case where payment of bribes was requested. One must not forget: Iran is highly developed.
Foreigners sometimes have to pay more to enter the museum, although this system of a surcharge for other nations was abolished by law in 2008.
How do “normal” people interact with tourists?
The hospitality of the population is overwhelming. There are few countries where tourists are welcomed with such warmth, both women and men. The authorities and the police are also quite friendly and correct towards tourists. I know other travelers may have had different experiences – but we had a wonderful time.
The majority of Iranians are basically very similar to us. They complain when the neighbor uses the leaf blower early in the morning. They enjoy hanging out at hamburger or pizza joints, and in the evenings they enjoy strolling with friends and family. Anyone visiting Iran for the first time will be amazed at how “normal” things are.
What is the mood in the country?
As a traveler you get to know a lot about the domestic political problems. The topic is on everyone’s lips. One senses how the gap between the strict Islamic stance of the hardliners in the government and what the people want is widening with each new generation. While a minority supports the system as it is, most call for reform.
The majority of the Iranian population cares about fundamental things, such as the right to freedom of expression. Its supreme leader, Hosseini Khamenei, rules with an iron fist and detentions for political reasons are commonplace. People in the LGBTIQ community and citizens who think too liberally are particularly affected by this.
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But tourists are doing Iran a disservice if they only scan the country for negative things with a magnifying glass. Persia is a nation of sharp contrasts and contradictions. The multi-ethnic society is highly complex and looks back on 6,000 years of history. The Iranians showed themselves at their best to us. So much so that I would travel there again with the motorhome at any time.
Christopher Many has been traveling the world as a writer since 1997 (including “Behind the Horizon on the Left”, “Behind the Horizon on the Right”). Information about his books and travels can be found at christopher-many.com.
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