The Forgotten Horse Races of Ueno Park: A Symbol of Modernizing Japan
Table of Contents
Explore a little-known chapter of Japanese history as Old Photos of Japan unveils the story of a racetrack built around Shinobazu Pond, revealing its role in shaping national identity and imperial power.
Between 1884 and 1892, a remarkable spectacle unfolded around the serene waters of Shinobazu Pond in Tokyo’s Ueno Park: Japan’s most critically important horse racing track. Today, few are aware that this vibrant hub of sporting and social life ever existed, yet its story is deeply intertwined with the nation’s rapid modernization during the meiji era. This is the second installment in a series examining the history of horse racing at Ueno Park, delving into the powerful symbolism behind its establishment and the dramatic alterations it wrought upon the landscape.
From Temple Grounds to National Stage: Ueno Park’s Transformation
To understand the placement of the racetrack, one must first understand Ueno Park’s profound ancient importance. the area was once home to Tōeizan Kan’ei-ji,a sprawling temple complex dedicated to the Tokugawa shōguns,serving as a crucial burial site for six of the fifteen rulers. A woodblock print from circa 1830-1844 by Utagawa Hiroshige vividly depicts the temple’s grandeur, with Shinobazu Pond peacefully situated in the foreground.
However, the landscape-and its symbolism-shifted dramatically in July 1868 with the battle of Ueno (上野戦争, Ueno Sensō). This pivotal clash saw 12,000 imperial troops defeat 2,000 soldiers loyal to the shogunate, effectively ending resistance to the new imperial government in Edo (present-day Tokyo). The battle resulted in the near-total destruction of the temple complex,a symbolic erasure of the old order.
For several years, the devastated grounds lay largely abandoned untill 1873, when it was designated as one of Japan’s first public parks. The Ministry of Home Affairs then embarked on a mission to transform Ueno into a prominent cultural district, replete with museums and educational facilities.the First National Industrial Exposition in 1877, attracting over 454,000 visitors, proved particularly influential, paving the way for four subsequent national expositions, two of which were also held in Ueno (1881 and 1890). an illustration of the 1890 exposition showcases the exhibition buildings alongside the Tokyo National
A Controversial Paradise
The decision to construct a racetrack on this historically and culturally sensitive land was not without its detractors. Some criticized the project as a vulgar intrusion upon the serene landscape, lamenting the loss of the pond’s natural beauty.One contemporary observer described the area as a “picturesque character.”
Though, Japanese journalist Teiichi Miki enthusiastically countered these criticisms, praising the “charming place” and the beauty of the willows, lotus blossoms, and surrounding wildlife. British author Mary Crawford Fraser, writing in 1889, offered a more nuanced perspective, acknowledging the “vulgar and profane” aspects of the races but still finding beauty in the “myriads of flowers” and “gorgeous dragon-flies” that populated the pond.
A Hub of Spectacle and Civic Life
For several years, the Shinobazu Racetrack thrived, attracting members of the imperial family, government officials, and large crowds eager to witness the races.The grandstand quickly became an integral part of Ueno Park,hosting not only horse racing but also banquets,exhibitions,and major civic events. In 1890, the races were held on an even grander scale as part of the Third national Industrial Exhibition.
However, this era of spectacle was not to last. In 1893 (Meiji 26), a sudden shift occurred, setting the stage for a dramatic change in the fate of Ueno Park’s racetrack.
.
Coming Soon! Part 3: The fate of Ueno Park’s racetrack.
Three Extremely Rare Images
Last week’s article about the forgotten horse races at Tokyo’s Ueno Park featured three photos of the grandstand. Original prints of this building, particularly those in good condition or hand-colored in the 1800s, are remarkably rare. In fact, the Duits Collection may be the only collection to hold all three.
