The Golden Spurtle: A Documentary Explores Obsession, Community, and the World Porridge Making Championship
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A new documentary, The Golden Spurtle, offers a surprisingly poignant look into the competitive world of porridge making, revealing a community driven by passion, tradition, and a touch of whimsy. The film, currently in cinemas after a successful festival run, delves into the annual World Porridge Making Championship held in the Scottish Highlands village of Carrbridge, and the individuals who dedicate themselves to perfecting this seemingly simple dish.
A Championship Steeped in Tradition
The World Porridge Making Championship, as depicted in the film, is far more than a culinary contest. It’s a cultural event steeped in local lore – where, according to tradition, stirring porridge anti-clockwise can invite unwelcome supernatural attention. The top prize, the Golden Spurtle, is a trophy named after the traditional wooden utensil used to stir porridge, embodying the championship’s dedication to authenticity. In October, Australian food stylist Caroline Velik secured victory in the speciality dish category with a yoghurt flatbread jaffle, and placed second in the main competition, which requires contestants to create porridge using only water, salt, and oatmeal.
From Opera to Oats: The Director’s Journey
Director Constantine Costi stumbled upon the championship while seeking a lighter project after working on an opera with the Berlin Philharmonic in 2023. “The opera was very serious and very German, and I decided I needed to do something a little bit more light-hearted,” Costi explained. Upon arriving in Carrbridge, almost three hours north of Glasgow and Edinburgh, Costi found himself captivated by both the village and its residents. “I just felt this burning desire to commit [this story] to cinema,” he said.
Costi prioritized building rapport with the locals, sharing tea and biscuits as he got to know them. This approach is evident in the film’s intimate and warm tone, with Costi often heard asking questions off-screen, creating a sense of genuine connection. He aimed to “mirror the feeling of being there [in Scotland] and of the familiarity,” while consciously avoiding a tone of ridicule. Costi shared a cut of the film with his subjects before its premiere in Copenhagen in March, and it was met with a positive reception.
A Sydney Chef’s Scottish Obsession
The documentary also features Sydney-based taco chef Toby Wilson, whose enthusiasm for the championship initially sparked Costi’s interest. Wilson, who competed in the 2023 championship – his second attempt at winning the Golden Spurtle – made it to the finals, ranking among the six best porridge makers globally. His dedication involved a 30-hour journey and utilizing his annual leave and savings. Wilson described Carrbridge as “one of the few places I love more in the world,” noting the town’s small population of approximately 700, with a roughly 600-100 split between supporters and detractors of the event.
The championship’s opening ceremony, as Wilson described, is a spectacle featuring competitors marching to the town hall accompanied by a Scottish marching band, complete with drums, bagpipes, and national flags. “That’s pretty much the closest I’m ever going to get to feeling like an Olympian,” Wilson remarked.
Beyond the Bowl: Exploring Human Obsession
While the structure of the World Porridge Making Championship provides a narrative framework – “You’re going to have tension, there’s going to be a winner, there’s going to be a loser,” Costi noted – the film’s core focus extends beyond the competition itself. The Golden Spurtle explores the nature of obsession and the human drive to compete and connect. Adam Kiani, from London via Birmingham, won the 2023 championship competing under the Pakistani flag.
Costi asks, “What are the things that we decide to commit our obsessions to? They can be as absurd as a porridge making competition.” He believes the film highlights our innate desire for community, celebration, and pushing the boundaries of our passions. This theme is embodied in characters like Nick Barnard, a seven-time finalist and health food store owner, and Ian Bishop, a reclusive former champion who returned after 15 years, guarding his recipe closely.
The Heart of the Championship: Charlie Miller’s Farewell
However, the true heart of the documentary lies with Charlie Miller, the outgoing chieftain of the World Porridge Making Championship, marking his final year after nearly three decades of service. Miller’s story serves as the film’s spine, inspiring Costi’s vision. The film captures Miller’s dedication to planning the event, crafting spurtles, and overseeing the competition, alongside the equally devoted residents of Carrbridge, including the woman who washes up after each round.
Costi poignantly portrays Miller’s bittersweet acceptance of stepping down due to health concerns. “Kind of against his will, he has to let go and say goodbye to this event that gives him so much joy and so much purpose,” Costi explained, noting the “bittersweet kind of undercurrent” throughout the film.
A Whimsical Vision of Scotland
The film’s whimsical atmosphere is further enhanced by a score from Australian conductor, composer, and pianist Simon Bruckard, and stunning cinematography by Dimitri Zaunders. Zaunders deliberately framed the Scottish landscape and the town’s inhabitants in symmetrical, stylized shots, aiming to create a “sense of whimsy and an almost dreamlike quality.” Costi described the visual style as evoking “a poetry and almost a storybook quality,” transforming Carrbridge into “this mythical realm where people come to compete with this ancient grain.” He envisions the location as “a holy place, the birthplace of this ancient foodstuff [porridge], to see how you can honour it in its most basic form.”
The Golden Spurtle is now playing in cinemas, following screenings at film festivals worldwide, including Sydney and Melbourne.