Milan Fashion Week delivered a jolt of unexpected energy Friday as Demna, the designer known for his subversive streetwear at Balenciaga, unveiled his debut collection for Gucci. The show, attended by fashion luminaries like Donatella Versace and Paris and Nicky Hilton, signaled a dramatic shift for the Italian luxury house, embracing a provocative aesthetic that flirts with the boundaries of taste. The collection, and the appointment of Demna himself, represents a high-stakes gamble for Gucci and its parent company, Kering, as they attempt to reignite sales and recapture cultural relevance.
The show was immediately notable for its departure from the more reserved approach of previous Gucci collections. Emily Ratajkowski walked the runway in a dress so short she periodically adjusted a cascade of disco-ball sequins for coverage, while Kate Moss appeared in a striking diamante G-string. A model even strolled the catwalk while scrolling on his phone, adding to the deliberately unconventional atmosphere. Demna, speaking after the show, dismissed expectations that he would simply deliver oversized branding and monogrammed pieces, stating, “That’s what ChatGPT said, apparently. But that’s not why I came to Gucci.” Instead, he aims to inject “energy, passion, fun and sex” into the brand.
A Deliberate Provocation
The overtly sexualized presentation was a calculated move, particularly given Demna’s stated inspiration. The night before the show, he released a statement referencing the Renaissance paintings of Botticelli, a surprising touchstone for such a brazen display. Backstage, Demna explained that he sought to connect Gucci with its Italian cultural roots – referencing artists like Botticelli and Michelangelo – but insisted that cultural relevance must begin with the underground, not the mainstream. This tension between high art and rebellious expression was palpable throughout the collection.
Gucci’s recent history underscores the need for such a bold reinvention. The tenure of Sabato De Sarno, Demna’s predecessor, was widely considered too cautious, failing to generate the excitement and sales figures the brand needed. Gucci’s best periods, under Tom Ford and Alessandro Michele, were characterized by a willingness to push boundaries – Ford with a compellingly provocative sensuality, and Michele with an ambitious embrace of gender fluidity and vintage aesthetics. Demna’s appointment signals a return to that spirit of daring.
The Kering Factor and a Share Price Boost
The stakes are high, not just for Gucci, but for Kering as a whole. Gucci is the company’s most significant asset, and several years of underperformance have weakened the group’s financial position. Kering’s willingness to invest in innovative and sometimes esoteric brands has historically been a driving force in the fashion industry, but that investment is contingent on Gucci’s success. A struggling Gucci limits Kering’s ability to support emerging talent and take risks.
The initial reaction from investors has been positive. News that Gucci’s sales decline had slowed – a 3% decrease in the final quarter of 2025, following a 4% decrease in the previous quarter – led to a 15% increase in Kering’s share price, according to reports. This suggests that the market is optimistic about Demna’s ability to turn the brand around.
Demna’s Past and a Newfound Freedom
Demna’s own journey has been marked by both acclaim and controversy. He gained recognition for emotionally resonant shows at Balenciaga, including a tribute to Ukrainian refugees in early 2022, but also faced significant backlash over advertising campaigns featuring imagery that was widely criticized as exploitative. The Guardian reported on the controversy surrounding the Balenciaga advertisements in November 2022, which led to widespread condemnation and a public apology from the brand.
Still, Demna appears to be approaching his role at Gucci with a renewed sense of personal freedom. He stated that he has spent the last decade trying to prove his intelligence, but now feels liberated to create from an emotional standpoint. “I am happier and healthier now than I have ever been,” he said, “and maybe part of it is that I’m falling in love with myself, which I never was before.”
What’s Next for Gucci?
Whether Demna’s tenure at Gucci will prove to be a resounding success or a spectacular failure remains to be seen. The initial collection has certainly generated buzz and sparked conversation, but the true test will be whether that translates into sustained sales growth. The fashion world will be watching closely to see if Demna can successfully navigate the delicate balance between provocation and profitability, and restore Gucci to its former glory. The next financial report from Kering, expected in April 2026, will offer a crucial early indication of whether this gamble is paying off.
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