2024-10-09 03:00:18
After a fluctuating Milanese season, Paris Fashion Week, which is celebrating its fiftieth anniversary, has kept its promises, despite the economic slowdown in the sector. In recent months, luxury has shown signs of weakness, evidenced by the decline in turnover of numerous houses. If previously the giants of the sector recorded record profits, demonstrating a relative insensitivity to crises, the prospects now seem less idyllic. At the center of concern: the contraction of the Chinese and American markets, which have largely fueled growth over the last decade.
This development suggests changes in strategy. But, for the moment, there is no risk taking. The formula of this fashion week remains unchanged: large gatherings, convoys of international stars, horn concerts and security barriers at the entrance to the fashion shows filmed by an army of smartphones. It’s always about focusing on the ultra-visibility of the media to win the battle of the algorithms. The dream machine continues to move the crowds and, despite the challenges facing the sector, the season has been characterized by a certain optimism and pleasant surprises.
Monday 23 September
Julie Kegel.
It was in pouring rain and gusts of wind that Victor Weinsanto opened the celebrations, on the terrace of the Center Pompidou, at the Georges restaurant, where his snack time show was held. Guests abandon their dripping seats and gather under large parasols that serve as giant umbrellas to watch the silhouettes pass by. Improvisation is necessary and the atmosphere is good-natured. This is fine, this is the central theme of the Nightmare in the kitchen collection, inspired by a form of joyful chaos. The time has come for emerging creators who are most affected by the industry slowdown.
Known for his sense of theatrics, Victor Weinsanto, a 30-year-old Alsatian designer, revealed more commercial pieces than last season – printed mesh tracksuits, striped tennis overcoats and suits, beaded tops – without parting with a dose of drama with pretty great visuals. couture outfits, like this hat over 2 meters wide.
To the west of Paris, a stone’s throw from rue Mallet-Stevens and the La Roche and Jeanneret houses that Le Corbusier built in the 1920s, the Muette residence is a group of collective housing built on stilts: an architectural jewel from the 1950s This is where Julie Kegels met at 6.30pm. On both sides of the residence’s central swimming pool, visible from the street, chairs have been installed and the Antwerp designer’s farewell letter to a Californian summer love is distributed.
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