“You feel like the king of the world when you surf it”: why the Nazaré wave is so special

“He didn’t have 36 million followers, but in the surfing world he was highly respected. Basque surfer Peyo Lizarazu regrets that it took death to find Marcio Freire, a “quiet legend” of Brazilian surfing, to arouse the interest of the general public. The first victim of the Nazaré spot, the 47-year-old surfer influenced the evolution of his sport.