One of the most important cultural events in Madrid in recent years has been the opening to the public, just before the pandemic, of a collection that for about 200 years remained closed in a private palace. The reason for it Liria Palacethe 18th century mansion of the aristocratic Alba family – one of the oldest in Europe – located in a quiet estate very close to the bustling Plaza de España in the city center.
With a similar reputation to the Prado Museum and the Royal Palace of Madrid, the Palacio de Liria is filled with works by Titian, Rubens, Velázquez, Goya and other artists who were favored by the Spanish court, while it also has vast literary and historical archives, as well as letters from explorers – Christopher Columbus, Francisco Pitharro, Hernán Cortés.
Since becoming the 19th Duke in 2014, Carlos Fitz-James Stuart has decided to share the treasures he inherited with the rest of the world through the Casa de Alba Foundation. The beginning was made in 2015, with the opening of other palaces of the family, such as Palace of the Dueñas in Seville and the Monterrey Palace in Salamanca. This is followed by a trek to the three palaces, as well as an interesting stop in the small town of Alba de Tormes.
First the recommendations
The Duchy of Alba was created in 1472, when King Henry IV of Castile “promoted” Don García Álvarez de Toledo from count to duke. Over the centuries, the Dukes and Duchesses of Alba have distinguished themselves in various ways. The third – also known as the Iron – duke went down in history for his campaigns during the Eighty Years’ War, while the 13th duchess is famous for getting Goya to paint her portrait more than once.
Over time the Alba family became associated with other noble families, accumulating titles. The 18th Duchess of Alba – with the majestic name Maria de Rosario Cayetana Paloma Alfonsa Victoria Eugenia Fernanda Teresa Francisca de Paula Lourdes Antonia Josefa Fausta Rita Castor Dorotea Santa Esperanza Fitz-James Stuart y Silva, Falcó y Gurtubay -, Doña Cayetana as she was known , held the most prestigious titles in the entire world, managing to keep the family name high in the limelight until 2014, when he passed away. How; By dressing and living as she pleased, sometimes scandalizing the public that adored her. Her eldest son, on the other hand, keeps a low profile and so the three palaces – which can now be visited – retain the imprint of his mother’s passionate character, with family photos and precious heirlooms giving the visitor the feeling of being at home and not in museum.
Palacio de Liria, Madrid
The baroque palace with the colonnade on the facade, hidden as it is behind towering cedars and ancient magnolias, can only be seen if one is inside the estate. Designed by the architect Ventura Rodríguez at the end of the 18th century, the magnificent building was reconstructed during the 20th century. by the British Edwin Lutyens. This is the Albas’ largest home and the duke’s main residence, with the family cars parked in the driveway and pets playing on the lawn.
Here, for a €15 ticket, visitors can take a 65-minute audio tour of 14 rooms, including the library where, among other things, the oldest Bible in the Spanish language, the second edition of Miguel de Cervantes’ Don Quixote, approx. 50% of the surviving correspondence of Christopher Columbus, as well as the handwritten maps on which he plotted Hispaniola on the 1492 voyage.
The central staircase, under a lighted canopy, leads to the portrait gallery which attests to the Alba family ties to the British House of Stuart, while a series of interconnecting rooms houses a magnificent collection of artworks revealing the family’s rich history .
Palace of Monterrey, Σαλαμάνκα
The 16th-century Palacio de Monterrey (a 50-minute audio tour costs €9.50 here) reveals the problems found in many noble residences. The imposing facade suggests a mansion of enormous dimensions, but in reality the complex is much smaller than the original plans, as only one wing was completed due to financial difficulties.
The property came as a gift to the Alba family around 1700. And although it is not as grand as intended, its facade is one of the finest examples of the Spanish Plateresque architectural style, with carved floral motifs adorning the towers, cornices, windows and the entrance.
The palace functioned as a school during the 19th century, then was abandoned and remained in ruins, until restored by the 18th Duchess of Alba and her father in the 1940s and 1950s. It is the warmest and most unpretentious of the three we present here, in one of whose rooms the family friend, former King of Spain Juan Carlos I, was even hosted as a teenager.
Alba de Tormes, Salamanca
In the small town of Alba de Tormes, little remains of the once magnificent 16th-century palace, where opera and theater performances were often given for the entertainment of the third duke and his distinguished guests, including King Ferdinand II of Aragon (1479 -1516). Today, only one tower can be visited, inside which some beautiful frescoes have been preserved (admission 3 euros).
Climbing to its highest point, in addition to the magnificent view of the plains of Castile and the Tormes river, you will also be informed about what happened here in 1582, when Saint Teresa of Avila, the Carmelite nun, mystic and philosopher was invited by the third duchess to bless the birth of her son. She, despite being ill, responded to the call, only to die soon after her arrival and be buried at Alba de Tormes. The church fathers in Ávila, however, insisted that she should be buried in her birthplace, so her body was repatriated.
At the request of the next duchess, however, a papal decree was issued for the return of the Saint to Alba de Tormes, where her remains remain – in fact, all that is left of them, since parts were lost in each transport of the body, in order to to be channeled into the then-thriving market for saints’ relics. Now, Saint Teresa’s fingers, wrists, heart and part of her jaw are kept in different churches. Her tomb in Alba de Tormes attracts thousands of worshipers every year. Five keys are required to open it, one of which belongs to the Duke of Alba, while another is kept in the Vatican.
Palace of the Mistresses, Σεβίλλη
The bougainvillea facade at the Palacio de las Dueñas (entrance €12) offers a stunning purple panorama of the flowers that crown the guest wing of more than 30 rooms – we’re talking a lot of purple! Within a year of its opening in 2015, the palace has become one of the five most popular attractions in Seville. Built between the 15th and 16th centuries in the Renaissance style, it has Gothic, but mainly Moorish influences, according to which the houses had to look like a fortress on the outside and paradise on the inside.
The palace has eleven atriums and gardens and nine fountains, two of which have been running gurgling water for nearly 500 years. Inside the house are kept works by 16th century artists such as Sofonisba Anguissola and Jacopo Bassano.
The Alba family acquired the palace in 1612 when the then owner needed money to pay a ransom to rescue a relative who had been kidnapped and taken to North Africa. Dueñas along the way became the favorite retreat of the 18th duchess, who even in her 80s used to dance flamenco every morning for practice. There is also a room dedicated to flamenco, where her dresses are displayed, as well as other heirlooms from Andalusia. The poet Antonio Machado, who was born in this house as his father was the administrator of the estate, has referred to its beauty in many of his poems.
2024-03-18 21:57:00