Bloomberg — As France prepares to welcome the world to the Olympics in Paris, the country has dozens of shiny, newly starred restaurants to showcase — exactly 62.
The number of three-star dining rooms, the pinnacle of haute cuisine, in the country has increased to 30; last year there were 29. Two years ago, 31 restaurants held that top spot.
One of the new three stars is Le Gabriel, located in the La Reserve hotel in Paris, near the Champs-Élysées avenue. Chef Jérôme Banctel specializes in dishes with influences from around the world, such as lobster cooked over Japanese binchotan charcoal with almond praline.
The other new three-star restaurant is La Table du Castellet, in Le Castellet, in the south of France, where chef Fabien Ferré runs the kitchen. “I’m not good at speeches, I’m better at cooking,” he said at the awards ceremony, surrounded by the other three-star chefs.
At 35, he is the youngest in the category. Its inspiring cuisine is featured on menus like “Expression Marine,” which might include a dish like mackerel (a type of fish) with aloe vera, celery and kiwi.
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The stars were announced on Monday, March 18, at a live event in Tours, a city on the banks of the Loire River in central France famous for its creamy pork paste.
France is the birthplace of the Michelin Guide and the country with the highest number of Michelin stars in the world. This year was marked by a greater focus on regions outside the French capital, according to Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guide, who spoke at the event’s introduction.
Even as the guide expands to cities and regions around the world, like Colorado and Atlanta, “France has a special position [para o Guia]”, said Poullennec.
The ceremony and wave of new starred restaurants come as economies are slowing around the world and consumers are still dealing with higher living costs.
This year, there are eight new two-star restaurants, a remarkable number that is double last year. Among them is one of the most famous spots in France, Le Jules Verne, on the second floor of the Eiffel Tower. Another new two-star restaurant is Les Grandes Alpes, in Courchevel: On stage, chef Sylvestre Wahid described his journey from arriving in France as a child, coming from Pakistan without speaking French, to now having two Michelin stars.
This year, there are 52 new one-star restaurants in the country. One of them is Le Tout-Paris, in the Cheval Blanc hotel, which has a modern brasserie menu with dishes such as blue lobster in bergamot sauce.
Another new one-star restaurant is Espadon Restaurant at the Ritz Paris, led by its first chef, Eugénie Béziat. “I follow my inspiration, it’s who I am,” she said, accepting her award. (It’s not the first time Béziat has led a one-star kitchen; she previously had one at La Flibuste in Villeneuve-Loubet.)
Outside Paris, new one-star restaurants included Alpage in the Alpine resort town of Courchevel.
Before this year’s announcement, the Michelin Guide announced bad news for some restaurants. The publication downgraded René et Maxime Meilleur from three stars to two; the restaurant is run by the eponymous father and son team in the Savoie region.
Last year, the same thing happened to one of the country’s most famous chefs, Guy Savoy, for his restaurant in Paris, while Christopher Coutanceau’s fine-dining seafood restaurant in La Rochelle also suffered the same fate.
In total, 28 restaurants were downgraded this year, including another notable restaurant, Auberge du Cheval Blanc in Lembach, which was dropped from two stars to one. Twenty-six establishments lost their one-star status.
When Paris hosts the Olympics this year, the country’s gastronomic heritage will be highlighted. Alain Ducasse, whose France-based restaurant empire has the most Michelin stars in the world, will prepare a dinner for around 100 heads of state. The meal is scheduled for July 25, the day before the opening ceremony, to be served under the Louvre Pyramid.
Among the special prizes awarded are eight for pastry chefs, for a category called “Passion Desserts”. One of the winners was Aurora Storari, from Hemicycle, in Paris; Her specialties include a roasted Jerusalem artichoke soufflé.
The renowned Yannick Alleno was recognized for his work as a mentor; on stage, he highlighted the importance of encouraging young people and also focusing on well-being. The Young Chef award went to Theo Fernandez, from Auberge de la Forge, in Lavalette, in the south of France; His restaurant also got a new one-star rating this year.
This is the third consecutive year that the Michelin Guide has held its awards ceremony outside of Paris; last year the chefs celebrated at an event in Strasbourg and the year before that in Cognac. The Michelin Guide has existed since 1900; in 1926 it began awarding stars.
Restaurants in France with three stars in the Michelin Guide
- Alléno Paris at Pavillon Ledoyen, Paris, 8 arrondissement
- AM by Alexandre Mazzia, Marseille
- Arpège, Paris, 7th arrondissement
- Champenoise Plate, Tinqueux, Grand Est
- Auberge du Vieux Puits, Fontjoncouse, Occitanie
- Epicure, Paris, 8 arrondissement
- Salt Flakes, Megève, Haute-Savoie
- Georges Blanc, Vonnas, Ain
- Kei, Paris, 1st arrondissement
- La Marine, L’Herbaudière on Ile de Noirmoutier
- L’Ambroisie, Paris, 4th arrondissement
- L’Oustau de Baumanière, Les Baux-de-Provence, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur
- *La Table du Castellet, Le Castellet, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur
- The Golden Wave — Cheval Blanc-St. Tropez, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur
- Villa Madie, Cassis, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur
- The 1947 — Cheval Blanc, Courchevel, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes
- Le Cinq, Paris, 8th arrondissement
- Le Clos des Sens, Annecy-le-Vieux, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes
- *The Gabriel, Paris, 8th arrondissement
- The Louis XV — Alain Ducasse at the Hôtel de Paris, Monaco
- Le Petit Nice, Marseille
- Le Pré Catelan, Paris, 16 arrondissement
- Les Prés d’Eugénie – Michel Guérard, Eugénie-les-Bains, Nouvelle Acquitaine
- Maison Lameloise, Chagny, Burgundy-Franche-Comté
- Mirazur, Menton, Alpes-Maritimes
- Pic, Valence, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes
- Pierre Gagnaire, Paris, 8 arrondissement
- Plenitude, Cheval Blanc, 1 district
- Régis and Jacques Marcon, Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes
- Troisgros — The Leafless Wood, Ouches, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes
* Restaurants that made the list in 2024.
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