2023-05-04 05:58:08
It’s a five-letter planetary success: Shein (pronounced “Chi-in”) is the fashionable clothing brand. Popular with young people, the Chinese brand – exclusively accessible online – is opening a pop-up store in Paris on Thursday May 4, which will be open from May 5 to 8.
In recent months, it has multiplied physical interventions in French cities (Marseille, Lyon, Montpellier) to sell its products at very low prices. A news that has something to delight its fans, crammed into queues, and afflict its detractors, who point to an aberration both human and ecological.
In less than ten years, a stunning triumph
Founded in 2008 by the Chinese Chris Xu, Shein (then under the name of Sheinside) appeared in Europe in 2015. From there, its growth was dizzying: in the space of a few years, the brand became one of the main leaders of the textile industry market, driven by the development of online commerce.
The reason for this success is above all based on its economic model: “fast fashion” (« fast fashion »), an abundant, varied production, at bargain prices thanks to regions where the cost of labor is very low. Shein took the model to the extreme, so much so that it is now referred to as “ultra-fast mode” (« ultra fast fashion »).
“She just pushed the sliders further than what already existed, with H&M or Zara. The difference is the degree of renewal of the collections, the incentive for consumption and the prices», assures Julia Faure, founder of the critical collective En mode climat. And for good reason: Shein defies all competition: t-shirts at 3 €, dresses at 8, jeans at 15…
More so, Shein led a revolution to reduce production costs as much as possible: «Thanks to its 100% digital form, the brand has the shortest lead times on the market. It only takes a few days to design the model, make it and send it,” explains Yann Rivoallan, president of the French Federation of women’s ready-to-wear.
The springboard TikTok
Whether in design, production or sales, Shein has an indispensable ally: the social network TikTok, the Chinese platform acclaimed by 15-20 year olds. «Shein produces everything in limited quantities. Then she tests the popularity of the model on the site and the network, before increasing production,” continues the president of the federation. The design of the models is also determined by artificial intelligence, which constantly studies the trends followed by users.
Above all, TikTok has allowed Shein to avoid colossal acquisition costs: the publication of videos made by users detailing their purchases gives it free publicity all over the world. “We are talking about millions of billions of views”, adds Yann Rivoallan.
This use of the network also makes it possible to promote compulsive purchases, the brand’s goodwill. “The Internet promotes psychological manipulation to consume more, and the excessive use of promotions, as is the case on Shein, is the perfect demonstration of this. Whatever your will, if you see – 40% on a product, you will consider its acquisition”, supports Julia Faure. «Fear of missing out and desirability have always been two big drivers in fashion. Shein uses them at an unparalleled level,” completes Yann Rivoallan.
Human and ecological disaster
Unsurprisingly, the behind the scenes of the brand is alarming. Because the human and environmental costs of Shein are also disproportionate. An archetype of fast fashion, the brand exacerbates the overproduction of clothes, the textile industry being the source of an average of 10% of global greenhouse gases.
Moreover, it is regularly accused of denying the human rights of its employees. Journalistic investigations have revealed unworthy working conditions (working days of up to 18 hours). The brand is also accused by a group of American parliamentarians of profiting from the exploitation of the Uyghurs, a Muslim minority locked up in camps in China; which she denies.
“Shein surfs on deregulationdenounces Nayla Ajaltouni, the general delegate of the critical collective Ethics on the label. This brand was born because we don’t have enough rules constraining multinationals on their value chain. » Like many NGOs and political representatives, it hopes to stem this growth by establishing a European duty of care. A directive will be voted on in Parliament by the end of May.
“If nothing is done, what prevents us from believing that we will not have another actor, worse, in ten years? concludes Julia Faure. Shein may complain about the emergence of “l’ultra ultra fast fashion”. »
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Up to 6,000 new products every day
If no official figures are published, Shein’s turnover is estimated at around 21.3 billion euros in 2022. This is slightly below the Spanish giant Zara (23.7 billion euros). During the pandemic, the brand reportedly experienced a growth spike of 250%.
Every day, Shein can publish up to 6,000 new references of clothing or accessories on its website, for a total of 600,000 products put up for sale each year.
A study published by Greenpeace Germany in november 2022 revealed the presence of dangerous chemicals at levels above the regulatory limits set by the European Union in certain products of the Chinese brand, in particular shoes.
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