Is hyaluronic acid as effective as cosmetic brands claim?

2024-03-26 13:21:40
Hyaluronic acid has become a buzzword in the beauty industry. They include all types of products, from creams and cleansers to shampoos. These items are often sold to consumers with the promise that they will increase hydration, which is important for skin to look its best. Hyaluronic acid is a molecule ubiquitous in the organs and tissues of the human body, and plays a crucial role in the function of our cells and tissues. It has been used clinically for decades, for example as an injectable between joints to help lubricate cartilage. But at the beginning of this century, cosmetic companies began using it as a moisturizing ingredient in cosmetic products. Topically, hyaluronic acid is believed to work by retaining water molecules to hydrate the skin and restore elasticity, preventing the appearance of wrinkles. When combined with a sunscreen, it can protect the skin from UV radiation as it has antioxidant properties (meaning it prevents damage caused by oxidizing agents such as UV radiation). Does it retain a thousand times its weight in water? One of the most used marketing arguments to sell hyaluronic acid is that it supposedly retains a thousand times its weight in water. This means it can lock in hydration and reduce moisture loss. But this claim has recently been called into question, with numerous publications discussing the findings of a preprint paper (not yet reviewed by other scientists) suggesting that this claim is not true. The study’s authors, researchers at the University of California, studied the binding properties of hyaluronic acid molecules and water to test the claim that it can hold a thousand times its weight in water. Desktop Code Image for mobile, amp and app Mobile Code AMP Code APP Code To do this, the scientists created a solution containing 1 gram of hyaluronic acid and 1,000 grams of water (that is, 0.1% hyaluronic acid), which they compared with acid-free water. They then applied heat to both solutions, measuring the thermal changes that occurred. They found that there was not much difference in the changes that occurred in the 0.1% hyaluronic acid solution compared to pure water. Thus they came to the conclusion that the widespread statement is not true. These findings may make consumers wonder how well their hyaluronic acid products work. How hyaluronic acid acts Although the experimental results obtained are not discussed, the conclusion about the water retention capacity of hyaluronic acid is not applicable to all forms of this molecule. Hyaluronic acid comes in different molecular sizes. In their experiments, the preliminary publication only analyzed a medium-sized molecule. This means that the results can only be true for products that contain hyaluronic acid molecules of, at most, that size. When hyaluronic acid interacts with H₂O, its water-loving (hydrophilic) and water-rejecting (hydrophobic) parts cause electrostatic repulsion. This allows a large number of hyaluronic acid molecules to form networks, similar to honeycombs, and expand. The larger the size of the hyaluronic acid molecule, the easier it will be to form these honeycomb structures, and it will also be more capable of retaining water relative to its own weight. The larger molecular size hyaluronic acid will form these networks at a concentration of 0.1%, meaning it can retain 1,000 times its own weight in water. Some very large molecules will even form these networks at a concentration as low as 0.05%. This means that it can retain 2,000 times its weight in water. It is also worth noting that hyaluronic acid not only retains moisture and hydrates the skin. Due to its moisturizing and antioxidant effects, it also promotes cell regeneration and stimulates collagen production. So its benefits go beyond its ability to retain water. Tips for purchasing the most effective product Although the new article has partially debunked a popular claim about the hydrating capacity of hyaluronic acid, that does not mean you should stop using it. Research continues to show that there is no doubt about its hydrating ability, which can leave skin softer, smoother and with fewer wrinkles. In addition, the antioxidant effects of this molecule promote the growth of new skin cells and collagen. But if you want to ensure you’re getting the most effective product possible, look for one that contains multiple weights of hyaluronic acid molecules (sometimes labeled as ‘triple weight’, ‘multiweight’ or ‘multimolecular weight’). Also try to choose an item with a minimum hyaluronic acid concentration of 0.1%. This is because research suggests that products containing a formulation of multiple sizes of hyaluronic acid molecules could be more beneficial to the skin than formulations with only one size. This is partly because smaller molecules penetrate the skin better, while larger ones retain more water. This article was originally published on The Conversation. ABOUT THE AUTHOR Lian Liu Associate Professor in the School of Chemistry and Chemical Engineering, University of Surrey
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